What Is Dicaprylyl/Capryl Sebacate?
Dicaprylyl/Capryl Sebacate is a clear, lightweight liquid created by joining sebacic acid, a naturally occurring dicarboxylic acid, with medium-chain fatty alcohols that come from plant oils such as coconut or palm. The result is an ester that feels silky on the skin and spreads easily without leaving a greasy film. Chemists began using sebacate esters in the 1980s as a more skin-friendly alternative to heavier mineral oils. Over time formulators discovered that blending caprylic and capric chains with sebacic acid produced a texture similar to certain silicones but with a more natural origin, so the ingredient found its way into modern clean-beauty lines.
Manufacturing involves an esterification process where the fatty alcohols react with sebacic acid under controlled heat and vacuum. Excess water is removed to drive the reaction forward, and the final liquid is purified and filtered to meet cosmetic-grade standards.
You can spot Dicaprylyl/Capryl Sebacate in many product types: daily moisturizers, sunscreens, lightweight facial oils, anti-aging serums, makeup primers, foundations, creamy blushes, hair serums and even rinse-off masks. Brands choose it when they want a smooth glide, quick absorption and a soft-focus feel on skin or hair.
Dicaprylyl/Capryl Sebacate’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses
Below are the main roles this multitasker plays in a formula
- Plasticiser – keeps solid or semi-solid products flexible so lipstick bullets, cream shadows or solid balms glide on smoothly instead of crumbling
- Emollient – softens and smooths the skin surface by filling in tiny gaps between skin cells, which boosts comfort and leaves a velvety after-feel without heaviness
- Solvent – helps dissolve oil-soluble active ingredients and pigments, improving their even distribution for a uniform color payoff or consistent delivery of actives
Who Can Use Dicaprylyl/Capryl Sebacate
This lightweight ester suits most skin types including dry, normal, combination and even oily skin, because it sinks in quickly and does not leave a greasy film. Its feather-light texture makes it a comfortable choice for acne-prone skin, though those extremely sensitive to any oils may still prefer to monitor how their skin responds.
The raw materials are plant derived so products using only vegetable-based sources of the fatty alcohols are suitable for vegans and vegetarians. As always, check the overall formula for animal-derived additives such as beeswax or lanolin if you follow a strict lifestyle.
Dicaprylyl/Capryl Sebacate is considered an inert carrier oil without hormonal activity, so it is generally viewed as safe for people who are pregnant or breastfeeding. This is not medical advice and anyone who is expecting or nursing should review new skincare with a healthcare professional first, just to stay on the safe side.
The ingredient does not make skin more sensitive to sunlight and no special photo-protective measures are needed beyond everyday sunscreen use. It is also odorless, making it a gentle option for those who react to fragrance.
Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions
Reactions to topical Dicaprylyl/Capryl Sebacate vary from person to person. The points below list potential side effects, but they are uncommon when the ingredient is formulated and used correctly.
- Mild redness or stinging on highly reactive skin
- Contact dermatitis in individuals allergic to fatty alcohols or sebacic acid derivatives
- Clogged pores or breakouts on very congestion-prone skin when used in heavy layers or occlusive products
If you notice any persistent irritation stop using the product and consult a medical professional.
Comedogenic Rating
Rating: 1 out of 5. Lab and industry data show that this ester has a very low tendency to clog pores because its molecules are lightweight and spreadable, so they sit on the skin surface without forming a dense film. That said, any oil-compatible ingredient can contribute to congestion if layered with heavy occlusives or if used in very rich formulations.
Suitable for acne-prone or breakout-prone skin in most cases.
Formulation level matters: in a sheer serum it is unlikely to cause issues, while in a thick balm combined with waxes the overall product could feel heavier and raise the risk of blocked pores.
Summary
Dicaprylyl/Capryl Sebacate works as a plasticiser, emollient and solvent. Its branched fatty chains soften skin, improve glide in color cosmetics and dissolve oil-soluble actives for even delivery. Because it mimics the slip of silicones without the same synthetic origin, it has become a staple in many modern “clean beauty” and sensorially focused formulas. Usage is growing steadily as brands look for plant-derived alternatives to mineral oil and dimethicone.
Overall safety is high, with a very low allergy or irritation profile and minimal comedogenic risk. Still, every skin type is unique so it is wise to patch test any new product that contains this ingredient before full-face use.