What Is Diethylene Glycol Diethylhexanoate/Diisononanoate?
Diethylene Glycol Diethylhexanoate/Diisononanoate is a man-made ester created by combining diethylene glycol with two branched fatty acids, 2-ethylhexanoic acid and 3,5,5-trimethylhexanoic acid. The resulting ingredient is a clear, lightweight liquid that feels silky rather than oily, qualities that make it popular in modern beauty formulas.
Its use in cosmetics began in the late 1990s when formulators searched for lighter alternatives to heavy plant oils and traditional mineral oils. Because this ester spreads easily yet leaves little residue it quickly found a place in skin and hair care products aimed at a smoother touch and a fresh finish.
Manufacturing involves an esterification reaction: diethylene glycol is heated with the two fatty acids in the presence of a catalyst. Water forms during the reaction and is removed to push the process forward. Afterward, the mixture is purified to get a stable, high-purity ester suitable for cosmetic use.
You will spot Diethylene Glycol Diethylhexanoate/Diisononanoate in a wide range of products such as facial moisturizers, hydrating toners, lightweight lotions, hair conditioners, styling creams, primers, sunscreens, liquid foundations and cleansing balms. Its ability to soften, smooth and improve texture lets it replace heavier ingredients without sacrificing comfort or performance.
Diethylene Glycol Diethylhexanoate/Diisononanoate’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses
In formulas, this multi-tasking ester brings several practical advantages:
- Hair conditioning: Coats strands with a thin, flexible film that boosts softness, reduces frizz and adds a healthy shine without weighing hair down
- Plasticiser: Improves the flexibility of solid or semi-solid products like sticks, pressed powders and mascaras so they glide on smoothly and resist cracking
- Skin conditioning: Leaves skin feeling supple and velvety by smoothing the surface and helping other nourishing ingredients spread evenly
- Emollient: Fills in tiny gaps between skin cells providing immediate softness while helping to slow water loss for a better-hydrated feel
Who Can Use Diethylene Glycol Diethylhexanoate/Diisononanoate
This light silky ester works for most skin types including oily, combination and normal skin because it absorbs quickly and leaves almost no residue. Dry skin can also benefit from the smooth feel but may want to pair it with a richer occlusive for extra moisture retention. Sensitive skin rarely reacts to it thanks to its low irritation profile, though individual tolerances always vary.
The ingredient is synthesized entirely from petrochemical and plant-derived building blocks with no animal by-products, making it suitable for vegans and vegetarians.
No specific warnings exist for pregnant or breastfeeding women when using this ester topically. It is considered low risk, but this is not medical advice and anyone who is pregnant or nursing should run all skincare choices past a qualified healthcare provider to be safe.
Diethylene Glycol Diethylhexanoate/Diisononanoate does not increase photosensitivity, so it will not make skin more prone to sunburn. It also plays well with common actives like retinoids, vitamin C and acids without destabilizing them.
Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions
Responses to topical ingredients differ from person to person. The effects listed below are only potential outcomes and are unlikely for the average user when the product is formulated and used correctly.
- Mild skin irritation such as redness or itching
- Contact dermatitis in individuals with a specific sensitivity to glycol esters
- Eye irritation if the liquid accidentally gets into the eyes
- Very rare clogged pores on extremely congestion-prone skin
If any discomfort or adverse reaction occurs stop using the product and consult a healthcare professional.
Comedogenic Rating
Rating: 1/5 – Studies and anecdotal reports show this silky ester sits on the lower end of the comedogenic scale. Its molecule is lightweight and highly spreadable so it is less likely to build up inside pores compared with heavier oils or waxes. In most formulas it evaporates or is absorbed before it can harden and trap debris, keeping the risk of breakouts minimal.
Because of this low score, Diethylene Glycol Diethylhexanoate/Diisononanoate is generally considered suitable for acne-prone or congestion-prone skin. Only those who react to almost every emollient may need to be cautious.
As with any ester, the final product’s full blend and the percentage used can influence pore-clogging potential. Pairing it with very occlusive waxes or butters could raise the overall comedogenicity of the formula.
Summary
Diethylene Glycol Diethylhexanoate/Diisononanoate is a versatile lightweight ester that conditions skin and hair, acts as an emollient for immediate softness, improves product glide as a plasticiser and enhances spreadability so other actives distribute evenly. It achieves these feats thanks to its smooth non-greasy texture and thin molecular structure that form a flexible surface film without leaving heavy residue.
The ingredient enjoys steady popularity in modern beauty products aimed at weightless feel, though it is not as widely recognized as classics like jojoba oil or dimethicone. Formulators value it for bringing a silky touch while keeping formulas light.
Safety data class it as low irritation with a negligible comedogenic rating, making it well tolerated by most users including sensitive or acne-prone skin. As always, patch test any new product to be sure it agrees with your individual skin needs.