What Is Diethylene Glycol/Propylene Glycol/Dipropylene Glycol Dibenzoate?
Diethylene Glycol/Propylene Glycol/Dipropylene Glycol Dibenzoate is a specialty ester formed when benzoic acid reacts with three common glycols: diethylene glycol, propylene glycol and dipropylene glycol. The process, called esterification, joins the acid to each glycol in a controlled heated environment, creating a clear, oily liquid that blends easily with both oils and certain water-based ingredients. The mixture’s balanced structure gives it a flexible molecular size and a neutral scent, two traits that make it handy in modern cosmetic labs.
Benzoates have been part of personal care formulations since the mid-20th century, but this particular triple-glycol version gained traction in the past two decades as brands searched for safer, non-phthalate plasticisers. Its ability to soften polymer films without compromising feel pushed it into nail polishes, hair sprays and flexible makeup products. At the same time chemists noticed that it left skin feeling smooth, so it soon appeared in moisturizers, masks, anti-aging serums, sunscreens and even some solid bar formats.
Commercially, manufacturers start with food-grade or cosmetic-grade glycols and purified benzoic acid, combine them in reactors with a mild catalyst, then remove water produced during the reaction. The result is filtered, quality tested and supplied to brands as a liquid additive that remains stable across a wide temperature range.
Diethylene Glycol/Propylene Glycol/Dipropylene Glycol Dibenzoate’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses
This versatile ester serves several purposes in topical products, helping formulators enhance texture, performance and skin feel.
- Plasticiser: It softens and flexibilises film-forming agents such as hair fixatives, mascara bases and nail polish resins, preventing cracking and flaking while improving wear time.
- Skin conditioning: By lightly coating the skin it smooths rough patches, boosts suppleness and supports a more even surface which can make makeup lay down better.
- Emollient: Its oily yet lightweight nature fills tiny gaps between skin cells, reducing transepidermal water loss and leaving a silky after-feel without greasiness.
Who Can Use Diethylene Glycol/Propylene Glycol/Dipropylene Glycol Dibenzoate
This ester is considered suitable for most skin types, from dry and mature to combination and oily, because it spreads thinly without leaving a heavy residue. Those with very sensitive or eczema-prone skin can generally tolerate it, though they should be mindful if their skin reacts easily to any benzoate-based ingredient. There is no evidence that it exacerbates rosacea or acne when used at the low levels typical in finished cosmetics.
The material is synthesized entirely from petrochemical glycols and benzoic acid, none of which come from animal sources, so it is appropriate for vegans and vegetarians. It is also free of common animal-derived processing aids such as tallow or lanolin.
Current toxicology reviews have not flagged this ingredient as a risk to pregnant or breastfeeding women when used topically in normal cosmetic concentrations. Still, this is not medical advice; anyone who is pregnant or nursing should show their healthcare provider the full ingredient list of any product they plan to use.
The molecule does not absorb UV light in a way that would cause photosensitivity, so it does not increase the skin’s susceptibility to sunburn. It is also odorless and colorless, making it unlikely to interfere with fragrances or pigments in a formula.
Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions
Individual responses to topical Diethylene Glycol/Propylene Glycol/Dipropylene Glycol Dibenzoate can vary. The points below list potential side effects, but most people will not experience them when the ingredient is used correctly in a well-formulated product.
- Mild skin irritation such as transient redness or stinging, especially on compromised or freshly exfoliated skin
- Allergic contact dermatitis in people already sensitized to benzoates, evidenced by itching or rash
- Temporary eye irritation if the product migrates into the eye area
- Rare clogging or comedone formation in individuals extremely prone to congestion when high levels are used
If any persistent burning, swelling or rash develops stop using the product and consult a qualified healthcare professional.
Comedogenic Rating
Rating: 1/5. Diethylene Glycol/Propylene Glycol/Dipropylene Glycol Dibenzoate is a light ester that spreads thinly and does not form an occlusive film, so it is unlikely to block pores for most users. It sits on the lower end of the comedogenic scale because its molecular weight and fluidity let it rinse or wear off easily, limiting the chance of buildup inside follicles.
Given this low score it is generally considered suitable for acne-prone or breakout-prone skin, especially at the modest percentages found in leave-on and color products. Very oily skins that react to any oil-like material should still monitor how their skin responds.
Formulas that combine this ester with heavier butters or waxes could raise the overall pore-clogging potential, so the full ingredient list matters more than this single component.
Summary
Diethylene Glycol/Propylene Glycol/Dipropylene Glycol Dibenzoate acts as a plasticiser, skin conditioning agent and emollient. It softens polymer films so nail polish mascara and hair sprays stay flexible, smooths the skin surface by lightly coating it, and fills microscopic gaps between cells to slow water loss without leaving a greasy residue.
The ingredient is moderately popular in modern formulations because it offers phthalate-free plasticising power along with a pleasant skin feel, yet it is still less common than classic emollients like silicones or natural oils.
Safety assessments rate it low risk for topical use and irritation is rare. As with any new cosmetic it is wise to patch test a small area first to confirm personal compatibility.