What Is Diglycerin/Dilinoleic Acid/Hydroxystearic Acid Copolymer?
Diglycerin/Dilinoleic Acid/Hydroxystearic Acid Copolymer is a synthetic polymer created by linking together diglycerin, dilinoleic acid and hydroxystearic acid. Diglycerin is a humectant derived from glycerin, dilinoleic acid comes from plant based linoleic acid that has been dimerized and hydroxystearic acid is a modified form of stearic acid often sourced from vegetable oils. When chemists combine these building blocks they form long, flexible chains that behave like a soft wax in finished formulas.
The cosmetic industry began exploring this copolymer in the early 2000s while searching for alternatives to traditional petroleum based thickeners. Its ability to stabilize water and oil mixtures without a heavy or greasy feel quickly made it attractive to formulators. Today manufacturers produce it in specialized reactors where the three monomers are heated under controlled conditions, allowed to react and then purified to remove unreacted materials. The resulting product is a beige to pale yellow solid that can be dispersed into water or oils.
You will most often find Diglycerin/Dilinoleic Acid/Hydroxystearic Acid Copolymer in moisturizers, lotions, creams, face masks, SPF products, anti aging serums and makeup items like foundations or BB creams where a smooth, cushiony texture is desired.
Diglycerin/Dilinoleic Acid/Hydroxystearic Acid Copolymer’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses
This multitasking ingredient offers several practical advantages in skincare and makeup formulas
- Emulsion stabilising: Helps keep water and oil phases from separating so products remain uniform throughout their shelf life
- Emollient: Adds a soft, silky feel on skin which improves spreadability and leaves a light protective film that reduces dryness
- Emulsifying: Allows oil soluble and water soluble ingredients to mix together making it easier for formulators to create smooth creams and lotions without extra surfactants
- Viscosity controlling: Thickens the formula to the desired consistency ensuring a pleasant texture that is neither too runny nor overly heavy
Who Can Use Diglycerin/Dilinoleic Acid/Hydroxystearic Acid Copolymer
This copolymer is generally well tolerated by all skin types. Normal, dry, combination and oily skin can benefit from its light emollient feel while sensitive skin usually appreciates its low irritation profile. There are no known skin conditions that make it unsuitable though those who prefer an ultra weightless texture may want to use it in lower concentrations if their skin is very oily.
The raw materials are sourced from plant oils or produced synthetically with no animal derived substances so products containing it are typically acceptable for vegans and vegetarians. Always check the full ingredient list of a finished product to be certain the entire formula aligns with personal ethics.
Current safety data shows no reproductive or developmental concerns, so the ingredient is considered safe for use during pregnancy and breastfeeding. This is not medical advice and anyone who is pregnant or nursing should confirm any skincare routine with a qualified doctor to stay on the safe side.
The copolymer does not absorb UV light or increase the skin’s response to sunlight, meaning it does not cause photosensitivity. It is also stable over a wide pH range and can be paired with most common skincare actives without conflict.
Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions
Responses to topical ingredients vary from person to person. The points below outline potential side effects but most users will not experience them when the product is formulated and used as intended.
- Mild skin irritation such as redness or itching
- Temporary stinging on very sensitive or compromised skin
- Allergic contact dermatitis in rare cases
- Pore congestion if used in an overly rich formula on acne prone skin
If you notice any uncomfortable reaction discontinue use and consult a healthcare professional or dermatologist.
Comedogenic Rating
Rating: 1 out of 5
This copolymer is a large, wax-like molecule that tends to sit on the skin surface rather than slipping into pores. While it contains fatty acid building blocks, the final polymer structure is not easily oxidized or broken down by skin enzymes, which keeps the risk of pore blockage low. Most lab and consumer tests report minimal incidences of clogged pores even in formulas aimed at oily or combination skin. Because of this, it is generally suitable for people who are prone to acne or breakouts, especially when used in lightweight emulsions.
Keep in mind that overall comedogenicity also depends on the entire product recipe. If the ingredient is paired with heavy oils or butters the finished product may feel richer and could raise the clogging potential.
Summary
Diglycerin/Dilinoleic Acid/Hydroxystearic Acid Copolymer acts as an emulsion stabilizer, emulsifier, emollient and viscosity controller. Its long flexible chains help water and oil stay mixed, add a soft slip to the formula, create a protective but breathable film on skin and adjust thickness for a smooth spread.
While not a headline ingredient like hyaluronic acid or niacinamide, it has carved out a steady spot in modern moisturizers, sunscreens and makeup where formulators want a light silky feel without relying on petroleum waxes.
Current research and industry use show it to be very safe with a low irritation profile, making it appropriate for nearly all skin types including sensitive and pregnant users. As with any new product, patch testing is wise so you can confirm personal compatibility before applying it to larger areas.