What Is Dihydrocholeth-20?
Dihydrocholeth-20 is a synthetic ingredient made by attaching about 20 units of ethylene oxide to cholestan-3-ol, a cholesterol-related molecule that comes from animal or plant sterols. The result is a waxy yet water-loving compound that blends the structure of natural cholesterol with the performance of a surfactant. Chemists began experimenting with ethoxylated sterols in the late 20th century to create milder cleansing agents for skin and hair care. Today manufacturers produce Dihydrocholeth-20 in controlled reactors where cholestan-3-ol is mixed with ethylene oxide under heat and pressure, then purified for cosmetic use. Because it can dissolve oils while staying gentle on skin, you will most often spot it in facial cleansers, micellar waters, creamy body washes, gentle shampoos as well as lotions and masks that need stable oil-in-water emulsions.
Dihydrocholeth-20’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses
In formulas this multitasker delivers two key actions that improve both feel and performance.
- Cleansing: Its surfactant nature lifts away dirt, excess oil and makeup so products rinse clean without leaving a tight or squeaky finish
- Emulsifying: It keeps oil and water phases mixed, giving creams, lotions and masks a smooth uniform texture while preventing separation over time
Dihydrocholeth-20 is generally well tolerated by normal, oily and combination skin while its mild, cholesterol-like structure also makes it comfortable for many dry or sensitive complexions that dislike harsh foaming agents. Because it helps dissolve oil rather than leave a heavy film it is unlikely to weigh down very oily or acne-prone skin, though individuals who react to any surfactant should still monitor how their skin feels.
The source of the starting sterol determines whether a finished batch is suitable for vegans or vegetarians. If the cholestan-3-ol comes from lanolin or other animal sterols the ingredient would not meet vegan standards, but plant-derived sterols can be used instead. Brands that certify vegan status normally specify a plant origin so check the label or company information if this matters to you.
No specific warnings exist for pregnant or breastfeeding women when it comes to topical use of Dihydrocholeth-20. Current safety assessments have found no hormonal or developmental concerns, yet this is not medical advice and anyone who is expecting or nursing should run all skincare choices past a healthcare professional just to be safe.
The ingredient does not absorb UV light and is not known to cause photosensitivity, so it should not increase your risk of sunburn. It is also odorless and free of essential oils which means there is no added fragrance sensitization from this raw material alone.
Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions
Reactions to any cosmetic ingredient can vary person to person. The following list covers possible but uncommon side effects linked to topical use of Dihydrocholeth-20 in properly formulated products. Most users will never experience these issues.
- Mild skin irritation itchy or tight feeling if your barrier is already compromised
- Redness or flushing usually temporary and often linked to overcleansing
- Eye stinging if high-foam cleansers enter the eyes during rinsing
- Contact dermatitis rare allergic reaction marked by rash or swelling
- Dryness if used in very high concentrations or combined with other potent surfactants
If you notice any of these effects stop using the product and consult a medical professional for guidance.
Comedogenic Rating
Rating: 1/5
Dihydrocholeth-20 is a large, water-soluble surfactant that does not linger on skin or leave an oily residue, so it has little tendency to clog pores. It also helps lift sebum and impurities off the surface, reducing chance for buildup. For these reasons it earns a low comedogenic score of 1.
Because of this low rating most people prone to acne or frequent breakouts can use products containing Dihydrocholeth-20 without added concern.
As with any cleanser the overall formula matters: very heavy oils, waxes or occlusives paired with Dihydrocholeth-20 could raise the pore-clogging potential, but the ingredient itself remains low risk.
Summary
Dihydrocholeth-20 acts mainly as a gentle cleanser and an emulsifier. Its surfactant head attracts water while its sterol tail grabs oil so it lifts away grime and makeup then rinses clean. That same dual nature bridges oil and water inside creams, keeping textures smooth and stable.
It is not the most famous ingredient on shelves, showing up more in specialist gentle cleansers or niche lotion formulas than in mass-market blockbusters, yet formulators who want mildness with good emulsifying power appreciate its versatility.
Current safety data rate Dihydrocholeth-20 as low risk with only rare irritation or sensitization reports. Still, skin is personal so it is wise to patch test any new product that features this ingredient just to ensure your complexion stays comfortable.