What Is Dihydrocholeth-30?
Dihydrocholeth-30 is an ethoxylated form of cholestan-3-ol, a molecule closely related to cholesterol. In practical terms it is a waxy, nonionic surfactant created when about 30 units of ethylene oxide are added to dihydrocholesterol. The base sterol can be sourced from lanolin or produced synthetically, then purified before the ethoxylation step. That reaction takes place under controlled heat and pressure until the desired average of 30 ethylene oxide units is reached. The result is a material that blends the skin-friendly feel of a natural sterol with the water-loving character introduced by ethylene oxide.
Surfactants built on cholesterol backbones started to appear in cosmetic science in the 1970s when formulators were searching for milder cleansing agents. Because Dihydrocholeth-30 can lower surface tension without stripping the skin, its use spread into facial cleansers, creamy body washes, micellar waters, makeup removers, rich emulsions, hair conditioners and specialty masks. It also shows up in anti-aging creams and luxe moisturizers where a silky finish and stable oil-in-water structure are prized.
Dihydrocholeth-30’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses
In formulas this ingredient plays two key roles that make the finished product more pleasant and effective.
- Cleansing: As a mild surfactant it helps water rinse away excess oil, sweat and everyday grime. Its sterol base is skin compatible so it cleans without leaving a tight dry feel, making it suitable for delicate or mature skin.
- Emulsifying: Dihydrocholeth-30 stabilizes blends of oil and water, keeping creams or lotions from separating during storage and use. This ensures an even distribution of active ingredients and contributes to a smooth luxurious texture that spreads easily and absorbs well.
Who Can Use Dihydrocholeth-30
Dihydrocholeth-30 is considered gentle enough for most skin types, including dry, sensitive and mature skin, because it cleanses without disrupting the skin’s natural barrier. Normal and combination skin generally tolerate it well too. Very oily or acne-prone skin may find richer cholesterol-based surfactants feel slightly heavy, though the ingredient itself is not highly comedogenic.
Vegan consumers should check sourcing details. The sterol backbone often comes from lanolin extracted from sheep wool, which is not vegan. Some suppliers make a fully synthetic version that is animal-free, so product labels or manufacturer statements are essential for clarity. Vegetarians who are comfortable with wool-derived ingredients usually have no conflict.
Current safety data show no specific concerns for women who are pregnant or breastfeeding when Dihydrocholeth-30 is used topically at typical cosmetic levels. This is not medical advice, and anyone who is pregnant or nursing should have a doctor review their skincare routine to be sure every ingredient is appropriate for their personal situation.
The ingredient does not increase photosensitivity, and it has no known interactions with sunscreens or common actives such as retinoids or vitamin C. It is also fragrance-free and dye-free, so it rarely clashes with other formula components.
Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions
Individual responses to topical Dihydrocholeth-30 can vary. The effects listed below are possible but uncommon as most people use products containing this ingredient without issues when the formulation is sound.
- Mild skin irritation – A small number of users may notice temporary redness or stinging, especially if the product is left on damaged or highly sensitive skin
- Contact dermatitis – Rare allergic reactions can appear as itchy patches or rash in individuals with a specific sensitivity to sterol-based surfactants or residual processing impurities
- Eye irritation – If a high-foaming cleanser accidentally gets into the eyes it can cause watering or discomfort until rinsed out
If any of these effects occur discontinue use and consult a healthcare professional or dermatologist for guidance.
Comedogenic Rating
Rating: 1 out of 5. Dihydrocholeth-30 sits at the low end of the scale because its bulky sterol base makes it less likely to slip into pores and form plugs. In most formulas it is used at modest levels, often in cleansers or lightweight emulsions that rinse or absorb well, further reducing clogging potential.
Overall it is considered suitable for skin that is prone to acne or breakouts, though extremely oily complexions may prefer lighter surfactant systems if the finished product feels too rich.
Because Dihydrocholeth-30 is usually paired with other oils and butters, the real comedogenicity of a product depends on the full ingredient mix, not this single component.
Summary
Dihydrocholeth-30 acts as a gentle cleanser and a reliable emulsifier. Its ethoxylated sterol structure lowers surface tension so grime can be lifted away while the water-loving side chains keep oil and water phases blended, giving creams and washes a smooth stable texture.
The ingredient is a niche favorite rather than a blockbuster, showing up mostly in higher-end cleansers, micellar waters, luxury moisturizers and certain hair care treatments where a soft glide feel is wanted.
Current data label it as low risk with minimal irritation reports, no phototoxicity and virtually no systemic absorption. As with any cosmetic ingredient it is wise to patch test a new product on a small area first to be sure your skin agrees with the full formula before applying it more widely.