What Is Dihydroxyethyl Tallowamine Oleate?
Dihydroxyethyl Tallowamine Oleate is a fatty acid derivative made by reacting tallow-based fatty amines with oleic acid and two molecules of ethylene oxide. Tallow is the rendered fat of cattle or sheep, valued in cosmetics for its rich mix of long-chain fatty acids. When these animal-derived fats are chemically combined with oleic acid from vegetable oils, the result is an ingredient that behaves a lot like the skin’s own surface lipids.
The compound first appeared in personal care formulas in the mid-20th century when chemists searched for mild, multi-tasking conditioning agents to replace harsher soaps. Its ability to soften, smooth and cleanse without stripping natural oils made it a favorite in rinse-off products. Today it is produced on an industrial scale through a controlled reaction: purified tallow amine is blended with oleic acid, neutralized, then treated with ethylene oxide to introduce two hydroxyethyl groups. The finished material is a viscous liquid or soft paste that disperses easily in water and oil phases.
You will most often spot Dihydroxyethyl Tallowamine Oleate in hair conditioners, two-in-one shampoos, styling creams, moisturizing body lotions, hand creams and cleansing balms. It is also used in beard care, after-sun lotions and intensive foot treatments where extra emolliency is needed.
Dihydroxyethyl Tallowamine Oleate’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses
Formulators choose this ingredient because it can do several jobs at once, allowing for simpler yet more effective products.
- Hair Conditioning: Deposits a light film on the hair shaft, smoothing cuticles, reducing static and making strands easier to detangle
- Skin Conditioning: Leaves skin feeling soft and supple by reinforcing the protective lipid barrier which helps reduce moisture loss
- Emollient: Provides a silky slip that improves spreadability, giving creams and lotions a rich cushioned feel without a greasy residue
- Cleansing: Acts as a mild surfactant that lifts away dirt and excess oil while counterbalancing the drying effect of stronger detergents
Who Can Use Dihydroxyethyl Tallowamine Oleate
This multitasking ingredient suits most skin and hair types. Dry, normal and combination skin tend to benefit the most thanks to its barrier-supporting fatty acids. Sensitive skin usually tolerates it, though anyone highly reactive to animal-derived ingredients should approach with caution. Oily or acne-prone complexions may find it a bit rich because of its occlusive nature, so lightweight formulas or lower concentrations are preferable in that case.
Because it is made from tallow, it is not considered vegan or vegetarian friendly. Anyone following plant-only or cruelty-free regimens will want to choose alternatives sourced from coconut or olive oil esters instead.
No studies show reproductive or developmental risks from topical use, so products containing Dihydroxyethyl Tallowamine Oleate are generally viewed as safe for those who are pregnant or breastfeeding. That said, this is not medical advice and moms-to-be or nursing parents should run any skincare products past a healthcare professional just to be safe.
The ingredient does not make skin more sensitive to sunlight and there are no known interactions with common actives like retinol or AHAs.
Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions
Responses to Dihydroxyethyl Tallowamine Oleate vary from person to person. The issues below are potential reactions only; when the ingredient is properly formulated most users will not notice any problems.
- Transient stinging or burning on very sensitive skin
- Mild redness or irritation due to fragrance or other co-ingredients rather than the tallowamine itself
- Allergic contact dermatitis in individuals sensitized to animal fats
- Clogged pores or breakouts on acne-prone skin if the formula is overly rich
- Eye irritation if a rinse-off hair product drips into the eyes
If any unwanted reaction occurs stop using the product and consult a healthcare professional or dermatologist.
Comedogenic Rating
Rating: 3/5 – Moderately comedogenic. The molecule contains a high proportion of oleic acid and other long chain fatty acids that can soften the keratin plug inside a pore, making it easier for debris to accumulate. At the same time the two hydroxyethyl groups give the ingredient partial water solubility, so it is less pore clogging than straight tallow or pure oleic acid. In rinse-off shampoos and conditioners the risk is low, but leave-on creams and balms formulated for the face may trigger congestion in skin that already produces a lot of sebum.
For those prone to acne or frequent breakouts this ingredient is only suitable in lightweight or rinse-off formulas.
Comedogenicity also depends on the concentration used, the presence of other occlusives and individual skin chemistry, so the finished product can feel very different from the raw material.
Summary
Dihydroxyethyl Tallowamine Oleate works as a hair conditioner, skin conditioner, emollient and mild cleansing agent. Its fatty acid tail anchors to hair or skin while the hydroxyethyl head attracts water, letting it smooth cuticles, reinforce the skin barrier, add slip and help lift away dirt without stripping natural oils.
The ingredient is moderately popular in cost effective hair care and body care, especially in products aimed at dryness, but its animal origin limits use among vegan and premium clean beauty brands.
Overall safety is good with a low incidence of irritation or sensitization reported. As with any new cosmetic it is wise to perform a small patch test when trying a product that contains it, just to be sure your skin agrees.