What Is Diisopropyl Sebacate?
Diisopropyl sebacate is an ester created by combining sebacic acid, a naturally occurring dicarboxylic acid often sourced from castor oil, with isopropyl alcohol. The result is a clear, lightweight liquid that spreads easily on skin. First explored by industrial chemists looking for flexible plastic additives in the mid-20th century, it soon attracted attention from cosmetic formulators because of its smooth feel and ability to dissolve other ingredients. Production involves reacting purified sebacic acid with isopropyl alcohol under heat in the presence of a catalyst, then purifying the final ester to remove excess alcohol and byproducts.
Today you will most often find diisopropyl sebacate in lightweight facial and body moisturizers, high-performance sunscreens, silky makeup primers, sprayable lotions, hair serums, aftershave balms and quick-drying hand creams. Its low viscosity and non-greasy touch make it a favorite in products that aim to feel weightless while still delivering softness and flexibility.
Diisopropyl Sebacate’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses
Formulators choose diisopropyl sebacate for several practical reasons that improve both the formula and the user’s experience.
- Plasticiser: Helps soften and improve the flexibility of film-forming ingredients such as sunscreen polymers or setting sprays so the dried layer moves with the skin and feels comfortable instead of tight or brittle.
- Skin conditioning: Leaves a light, velvety finish that makes skin feel smooth and moisturized without a heavy or sticky residue.
- Emollient: Fills in tiny gaps between skin cells, reducing roughness and boosting overall softness which can enhance the look of healthy, even skin.
- Solvent: Efficiently dissolves UV filters, fragrances and other oil-soluble actives, ensuring they stay evenly dispersed for consistent performance and a clear, elegant texture.
Who Can Use Diisopropyl Sebacate
Because it is light and non greasy diisopropyl sebacate generally suits oily, combination and normal skin types that want slip without heaviness. Dry skin can also benefit when the ester is paired with richer oils or occlusives though it may not be hydrating enough on its own. Most sensitive skin users tolerate it well because it has a low irritation profile, but anyone with a known allergy to isopropyl compounds should proceed cautiously.
The ingredient is synthesized from plant sourced sebacic acid and petrochemical or bio-based isopropyl alcohol with no animal derivatives involved so it is considered suitable for vegans and vegetarians.
No evidence links topical diisopropyl sebacate to developmental or hormonal concerns, so products containing it are generally viewed as safe for those who are pregnant or breastfeeding. This is not medical advice and anyone expecting or nursing should still clear new skincare with a qualified healthcare provider.
The ester does not absorb UV light or make skin more reactive to the sun so it is not regarded as photosensitizing. It also tends to be compatible with a wide range of common actives including retinoids, acids and mineral or chemical UV filters.
Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions
Side effects from topical use vary from person to person. The points below reflect potential reactions but they are uncommon for most users when the ingredient is formulated correctly.
- Mild skin irritation such as redness or stinging especially on compromised or freshly exfoliated skin
- Contact dermatitis in individuals allergic to esters or isopropyl-based compounds
- Transient eye irritation if the product accidentally reaches the eye area
- Occasional clogged pores or breakouts in very acne prone skin
If any of these effects occur stop use immediately and seek guidance from a healthcare professional or dermatologist.
Comedogenic Rating
Rating: 1 out of 5. Diisopropyl sebacate has a small molecular size and a dry, fast-spreading texture that leaves little residue on the skin, so it is unlikely to build up inside pores or create the occlusive film that often triggers blackheads and whiteheads. Formulas using it typically feel weightless and evaporate or absorb quickly, further reducing pore-clogging potential. For these reasons it is generally considered suitable for people prone to acne or breakouts, though very reactive or severely congested skin may still prefer to limit any ester-type emollients. If combined with heavier oils or waxes in a product, the overall comedogenicity will depend on the full formula not just this single ester.
Summary
Diisopropyl sebacate works as a plasticiser, skin-conditioning agent, emollient and solvent. It softens polymer films so they flex with facial movement, smooths the surface of skin for a velvety after-feel, fills microscopic gaps between skin cells to improve softness and dissolves oil-soluble actives such as UV filters or fragrances to keep formulas clear and stable. Its popularity sits in the middle ground: not as ubiquitous as classic silicones or triglycerides yet prized in modern lightweight sunscreens, primers and fast-absorbing lotions where a non-greasy slip is essential.
Topically it shows a low irritation and low comedogenic profile for most users, with no evidence of endocrine disruption or photosensitivity. Overall it is viewed as a safe cosmetic ingredient. As with any new product, performing a small patch test before full-face or body use helps catch any unexpected reactions and is always a wise step.