What Is Diisostearoyl Polyglyceryl-3 Dimer Dilinoleate?
Diisostearoyl Polyglyceryl-3 Dimer Dilinoleate is a plant-derived ingredient made by linking natural fatty acids to a small chain of glycerin molecules. The fatty acids usually come from sources like soybean or rapeseed oil while the glycerin is often made from vegetable oils. Chemists join these parts through a gentle heating and esterification process that leaves behind a smooth wax-like substance. The result is a soft, velvety material that melts at skin temperature and blends easily with oils and butters.
Interest in this compound grew in the early 2000s when formulators looked for more eco-friendly options to replace mineral oil and synthetic silicones. Because it is based on renewable raw materials and is biodegradable it fit the clean beauty trend and quickly found a place in lipsticks, glosses, creamy foundations, tinted balms, rich face creams, overnight masks and anti-aging serums that promise long-lasting comfort and a dewy finish.
Its built-in mix of long and short fatty chains gives it a cushiony feel while the polyglyceryl part helps it stay put on the skin’s surface. This dual nature explains why it is so popular in products that need both glide and staying power such as matte lip colors and transfer-resistant foundations.
Diisostearoyl Polyglyceryl-3 Dimer Dilinoleate’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses
Formulators reach for this ingredient when they want to deliver softness and lasting moisture without a heavy or greasy afterfeel.
- Skin Conditioning: It forms a light, breathable film that smooths rough patches, softens dry areas and leaves skin feeling supple. This makes textures feel richer on application while helping the skin look healthier and more even.
- Emollient: Its fatty nature fills in the gaps between skin cells, reducing moisture loss and boosting the slip of creams and balms. The ingredient adds creaminess to thick formulas and improves the spreadability of color products so they apply evenly and resist flaking.
Who Can Use Diisostearoyl Polyglyceryl-3 Dimer Dilinoleate
This ingredient is generally well tolerated by most skin types. Dry and mature skin benefit the most from its cushioning feel while normal and combination skin appreciate the light, nonsticky finish. Oily or acne-prone users usually tolerate it because it sits on the surface rather than seeping deep into pores but extremely reactive skin may prefer a patch test first.
Because it is made entirely from plant oils and glycerin, it is suitable for vegans and vegetarians. No animal-derived raw materials or by-products are used during manufacturing.
Current safety data show no reproductive or developmental concerns, so products containing this ingredient are generally considered safe during pregnancy and breastfeeding. This is not medical advice and anyone who is pregnant or nursing should have a doctor review all skincare products to be sure they fit personal health needs.
The ingredient does not absorb UV light and does not make skin more sensitive to the sun. It is also odorless and colorless so it rarely causes fragrance or dye sensitivities. If a formula pairs it with strong actives or fragrances those other components, not the emollient itself, are usually the culprits behind any reaction.
Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions
Responses to topical Diisostearoyl Polyglyceryl-3 Dimer Dilinoleate vary from person to person. The following list covers potential but uncommon reactions. When the ingredient is used at the levels typically found in cosmetics most people will not experience any of these issues.
- Mild redness or itching in individuals with a specific fatty acid sensitivity
- Transient breakouts in very clog-prone skin if the overall formula is rich or occlusive
- Watery eyes or slight stinging if the product migrates directly into the eye area
- Rancid or off smell and possible skin irritation if a product containing the ingredient is far past its expiration date
If any irritation, breakout or discomfort develops stop using the product and consult a healthcare professional if symptoms persist.
Comedogenic Rating
Rating: 1/5
Although Diisostearoyl Polyglyceryl-3 Dimer Dilinoleate is lipid based, its branched fatty acid chains and polyglyceryl backbone create a large, bulky molecule that tends to stay on the skin’s surface rather than lodging inside pores. It spreads thinly, forms a flexible film and is typically used at moderate levels so the overall clogging potential is low.
This makes the ingredient generally suitable for acne-prone or breakout-prone skin, provided the rest of the formula is also lightweight and non-occlusive.
Formulation specifics still matter. In a very heavy balm or paired with highly occlusive waxes even low-comedogenic ingredients can become problematic, so product context is key.
Summary
Diisostearoyl Polyglyceryl-3 Dimer Dilinoleate works mainly as a skin-conditioning emollient. Its fatty acid side chains fill gaps between surface cells to smooth and soften while the polyglyceryl section anchors the molecule on the skin creating a breathable, moisture-locking veil. This dual action delivers a plush feel and longer-lasting comfort in lipsticks, foundations and rich creams.
It has gained steady popularity with clean beauty brands looking to swap out mineral oil or silicones yet keep a luxurious finish. Though not as common as jojoba or shea butter, its usage is growing thanks to its plant origin, pleasant texture and good stability.
Safety data rate it as low risk with no known reproductive or sensitization concerns. Most users tolerate it well, however anyone trying a new product containing this or any other unfamiliar ingredient should patch test first to rule out individual sensitivities.