What Is Diisostearyl Lauroyl Glutamate?
Diisostearyl Lauroyl Glutamate is a skin loving ingredient made by joining lauric acid, a fatty acid found in coconut and palm kernel oils, with glutamic acid, an amino acid that occurs naturally in the body, then attaching two isostearyl groups sourced from plant oils. The result is a gentle, oil soluble compound that feels silky and blends well with other cosmetic ingredients.
The ingredient was first explored in Japan during the 1990s when formulators were searching for mild alternatives to animal derived conditioning agents. By using plant based raw materials and a process called esterification, chemists created Diisostearyl Lauroyl Glutamate, which showed strong conditioning power without heaviness. Its popularity spread to Europe and North America as clean beauty brands looked for vegan friendly options.
Manufacturing starts with lauric acid and glutamic acid, which react to form lauroyl glutamic acid. This intermediate is then combined with isostearyl alcohol under controlled heat and vacuum to form the final ester. The finished material is purified, tested for safety and supplied as a soft wax or viscous liquid that melts easily into creams and lotions.
You will spot Diisostearyl Lauroyl Glutamate in rinse off and leave on hair masks, daily conditioners, styling creams, facial moisturizers, lip balms, solid cleansing bars and anti aging serums where a smooth, non greasy feel is desired.
Diisostearyl Lauroyl Glutamate’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses
This multitasking ester brings two main benefits to beauty formulas
- Hair Conditioning: It coats the hair shaft with a thin, weightless film that smooths cuticles, reduces static and makes strands easier to detangle. Regular use can boost shine and softness without flattening fine hair
- Emollient: On skin it acts as a lightweight oil that fills in tiny surface cracks, leaving a soft velvety finish. It helps lock in moisture, improving the spreadability of creams and enhancing overall sensory feel
Who Can Use Diisostearyl Lauroyl Glutamate
Thanks to its light silky texture Diisostearyl Lauroyl Glutamate suits almost every skin type. Dry and mature skin appreciate the emollient film that helps keep water from escaping while normal and combination skin enjoy softness without greasy residue. Even oily or breakout prone skin can usually tolerate it because the molecule is lightweight and does not block pores easily. Extremely sensitive or compromised skin should still monitor for any sign of irritation but the ingredient’s mildness record is strong.
The raw materials come from coconut palm and other plant sources so the finished ester is free of animal derivatives making it suitable for vegans and vegetarians.
No evidence links Diisostearyl Lauroyl Glutamate to hormonal activity or fetal risk so products containing it are generally viewed as safe during pregnancy and breastfeeding. This is not medical advice and anyone expecting or nursing should clear new products with a doctor first to be extra safe.
The ingredient does not absorb UV light and is not known to cause photosensitivity. It also plays well with other actives and preservatives so there are no special daytime restrictions or layering concerns.
Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions
Individual responses to topical ingredients differ so the effects listed below are only potential outcomes. When used at customary levels in well formulated products most people experience none of these issues.
- Mild skin redness or stinging in very sensitive individuals
- Rare allergic contact dermatitis resulting in itching or small rash
- Scalp buildup or limp feel if overused on extremely fine hair
- Isolated congested pores in users highly prone to acne
If any discomfort or reaction occurs discontinue use and seek guidance from a healthcare professional or dermatologist.
Comedogenic Rating
Rating: 1 out of 5. Diisostearyl Lauroyl Glutamate is a light plant derived ester that spreads thinly and absorbs without leaving a heavy residue, so it rarely blocks pores. Its branched isostearyl chains keep the molecule movable on the skin surface which lowers the chance of it compacting with dead cells or sebum. Only extremely oily or congestion prone users might notice an occasional clogged pore when products containing high amounts of this ingredient are layered with richer oils. Overall it is considered suitable for most people who deal with acne or frequent breakouts.
Formulas also tend to pair this ester with quick absorbing emulsifiers and humectants, further reducing any occlusive effect. As with any emollient the final product’s full ingredient mix and the user’s own skin environment will ultimately decide whether clogging occurs.
Summary
Diisostearyl Lauroyl Glutamate works as an emollient and a hair conditioning agent. On skin it fills micro gaps between cells, smoothing rough patches and sealing in moisture for a soft velvety feel. On hair it forms a thin conditioning layer that flattens lifted cuticles, cuts static and boosts shine without weighing strands down.
The ester gained traction in the late 1990s clean beauty scene and is now a quiet staple in many conditioners, leave in creams, solid cleansers and lip products. It is not as famous as shea butter or dimethicone yet formulators appreciate its vegan origin and pleasant touch which keeps demand steady.
Safety reviews show a very low irritation and allergy profile and it does not carry hormonal or phototoxic concerns. That said every skin is unique so it is wise to patch test any new product that features Diisostearyl Lauroyl Glutamate before full use.