What Is Diisostearyl Malate?
Diisostearyl Malate is a specialty ester created by joining malic acid, a fruit-derived acid, with two molecules of isostearyl alcohol, an oily substance most often sourced from plant oils like coconut or rapeseed. The result is a clear to pale yellow liquid that feels silky and spreads easily on skin.
Chemists first blended these building blocks in the late twentieth century while searching for lightweight oils that would stay put on lips and skin. Diisostearyl Malate’s cushiony feel and shine quickly earned it a place in color cosmetics, especially lipsticks and glosses, and it has since become a go-to ingredient in many makeup and skincare lines.
Manufacturing involves an esterification process: malic acid is reacted with isostearyl alcohol under controlled heat and the presence of a catalyst. Water that forms during the reaction is removed so the final ester stays stable. After purification the finished ingredient meets cosmetic grade standards.
You will most often spot Diisostearyl Malate in lipsticks, tinted balms, creamy foundations, cheek tints, moisturizers, makeup removers and cleansing balms where it imparts glide and a soft finish.
Diisostearyl Malate’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses
This multitasking ester offers several perks that improve how a product looks, feels and performs
- Skin Conditioning: Forms a thin, flexible layer that smooths rough spots so skin looks softer and more even
- Emollient: Fills in surface gaps much like mortar between bricks, leaving skin or lips supple without a heavy greasy feel
- Cleansing: Works as a gentle oil phase that dissolves makeup, sunscreen and excess sebum allowing them to rinse away easily
Who Can Use Diisostearyl Malate
Because it feels light yet moisturizing, Diisostearyl Malate suits most skin types including dry, normal and combination skin. Oily or acne-prone users usually tolerate it as well, though very breakout-prone individuals may prefer to monitor how their skin responds since richer esters can sometimes add to surface oil.
The ingredient is typically sourced from plant-based oils so it is considered suitable for both vegans and vegetarians. If a brand states its supply chain is fully plant derived you can feel confident it aligns with a vegan lifestyle.
No data links Diisostearyl Malate to issues during pregnancy or breastfeeding when used on skin. That said this information is not medical advice and anyone who is pregnant or nursing should run new skincare products past a doctor just to be safe.
Diisostearyl Malate is not known to cause photosensitivity so it will not make skin more prone to sunburn. It also plays well with common skincare actives and makeup pigments, adding slip without reacting negatively to them.
Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions
Responses to Diisostearyl Malate vary from person to person. The points below list potential side effects but most people will not experience them when the ingredient is used correctly in a finished product.
- Mild skin irritation such as redness or stinging in very sensitive individuals
- Contact allergy resulting in itching or small bumps
- Clogged pores or comedones in those who are extremely acne prone
- Temporary eye irritation if product migrates into the eyes
If you notice any of these reactions stop use and consult a healthcare professional.
Comedogenic Rating
Rating: 1 out of 5. Diisostearyl Malate is a lightweight ester that sinks in quickly and does not leave a thick film, so it has very little tendency to trap oil or dead skin inside pores. Most people prone to acne will find it acceptable, though extremely oily skin types might still choose lighter options. Formulas that blend this ester with heavier waxes or butters could raise the pore-clogging risk, so the full ingredient list matters.
Summary
Diisostearyl Malate conditions skin, works as an emollient and helps dissolve makeup. It does this by forming a thin flexible layer that smooths rough spots, filling in surface gaps so skin feels soft while also breaking down oily residue. The ingredient shows up often in lipsticks and glosses and is popping up in cleansing balms and tinted moisturizers thanks to its silky feel.
Safety data rate it as low risk with only rare cases of irritation or allergy. When trying any new product that contains it it is still wise to patch test first to be sure your skin stays comfortable.