What Is Dilauroyl 3-Glyceryl Ascorbate?
Dilauroyl 3-Glyceryl Ascorbate is a vitamin C derivative created by linking lauric acid, a fatty acid most often obtained from coconut oil, to 3-glyceryl ascorbate. This pairing gives the molecule both the antioxidant power of vitamin C and the skin-softening qualities of a lightweight oil. It was developed when chemists looked for a way to keep vitamin C stable, comfortable to use and better able to mingle with other ingredients in modern skin care. By esterifying vitamin C with lauric acid through a controlled heating and catalytic reaction, they produced a compound that resists oxidation, dissolves nicely in oils and spreads smoothly on skin. Today the ingredient appears in brightening serums, daily moisturizers, anti-aging creams, after-sun gels, sheet masks and even some color-cosmetics that aim to offer skin care benefits.
Dilauroyl 3-Glyceryl Ascorbate’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses
When added to a formula Dilauroyl 3-Glyceryl Ascorbate works on several fronts to improve how the product performs and how the skin looks and feels.
- Antioxidant: Neutralizes free radicals that can dull skin and speed up visible aging helping maintain a brighter, fresher complexion
- Humectant: Draws water to the upper layers of skin boosting hydration levels and supporting a plumper appearance
- Skin Conditioning: Enhances softness, flexibility and overall comfort making skin feel smooth and well cared for
- Emollient: Adds a light lipid layer that reduces moisture loss and gives formulas a silky glide without heaviness
Who Can Use Dilauroyl 3-Glyceryl Ascorbate
This ingredient is gentle enough for most skin types. Dry and normal skin benefit from its humectant and emollient traits while combination and oily skin appreciate its light feel that does not leave a greasy film. Sensitive skin usually tolerates it well because the lauric acid ester makes the vitamin C less irritating than pure ascorbic acid. Those with a known coconut or lauric acid allergy should avoid it since the fatty acid portion is coconut derived.
Dilauroyl 3-Glyceryl Ascorbate is produced synthetically from plant sourced raw materials so it is suitable for both vegans and vegetarians. No animal derived substances or animal testing are required for its manufacture.
Current research has found no specific risks for pregnant or breastfeeding women when the ingredient is used in cosmetics at typical concentrations. That said this is not medical advice and anyone who is pregnant or nursing should discuss all skincare products with a qualified healthcare provider to be extra safe.
The molecule itself does not make skin more prone to sunburn therefore it is not considered photosensitising. Normal daytime sun protection habits are still recommended whenever using any vitamin C product to keep results optimal.
Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions
Reactions to topical Dilauroyl 3-Glyceryl Ascorbate vary from person to person. The points below list potential side effects yet these outcomes are uncommon when the ingredient is formulated and used as intended.
- Temporary stinging or tingling when first applied
- Mild redness or warmth in very reactive skin
- Contact dermatitis in individuals allergic to coconut derived fatty acids
- Clogged pores or breakouts if layered with very heavy occlusive products
- Uneven fading of self-tan or bronzer due to the antioxidant activity
If irritation or any unexpected reaction develops discontinue use and consult a healthcare professional.
Comedogenic Rating
Rating: 1 / 5
Dilauroyl 3-Glyceryl Ascorbate is a large ester molecule that sits lightly on the surface and is less likely to clog pores than free lauric acid, which scores higher on the comedogenic scale. Its balanced oil-water affinity means it spreads thinly and tends to rinse away easily, leading to the low rating.
This rating makes the ingredient generally suitable for acne-prone or breakout-prone skin.
Final pore-clogging risk depends on the full formula and how heavily the product is layered with other rich ingredients.
Summary
Dilauroyl 3-Glyceryl Ascorbate marries vitamin C with lauric acid to deliver four main benefits: it scavenges free radicals for antioxidant defense, pulls in moisture as a mild humectant, softens and conditions skin and lays down a thin emollient film that helps stop water escaping. The vitamin C core handles the oxidative stress while the glycerol segment binds water and the lauric esters supply a silky protective feel.
While not yet a household name, it is turning up in an increasing number of Japanese and Korean serums, moisturizers and sun care products that want vitamin C brightness without the sting or instability of pure ascorbic acid.
Current safety data shows low irritation and low comedogenicity at typical use levels so most people can enjoy its perks. As with any new cosmetic ingredient a small patch test is wise before fully adding it to your routine.