What Is Dilauryl Citrate?
Dilauryl Citrate, sometimes called didodecyl hydrogen citrate, is an ester made by combining citric acid with lauryl alcohol, a fatty alcohol usually sourced from coconut or palm oil. The reaction joins the fatty alcohol and the natural acid, creating a silky wax-like ingredient that blends well with oils and butters.
Chemists first explored fatty acid–citric acid esters in the 1960s while searching for gentle skin softeners for personal care. Dilauryl Citrate gained popularity because it offered the smoothing feel of oils yet stayed solid at room temperature, making it easy to add to many product textures.
Commercial production starts with plant-derived lauryl alcohol that is purified then reacted with food-grade citric acid under controlled heat and catalytic conditions. The finished ester is filtered and tested for purity before shipment to cosmetic manufacturers.
You will most often find Dilauryl Citrate in rich face creams, night masks, anti-aging lotions, lip balms, body butters, hair conditioning masks and solid stick products where it helps give a velvety glide.
Dilauryl Citrate’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses
This multifunctional ester brings a pleasant feel and extra care to many formulations.
- Skin Conditioning: Helps keep skin feeling soft and smooth by forming a light protective film that reduces moisture loss
- Emollient: Adds slip and a silky after-feel to creams and balms which improves spreadability and leaves skin cushioned without a greasy residue
Who Can Use Dilauryl Citrate
Dilauryl Citrate suits most skin types, especially normal to dry or mature skin that appreciates extra softness. Combination and oily skin can also tolerate it since the ester feels light and non-greasy, though those who are extremely blemish-prone may prefer to use it in lower concentrations. The ingredient is typically sourced from plant-based lauryl alcohol and food-grade citric acid, making it appropriate for vegans and vegetarians as long as the finished product has not been blended with animal-derived additives.
Current safety data show no specific concerns for pregnant or breastfeeding women when the ingredient is used in rinse-off or leave-on cosmetics. Still, this information is not medical advice, and anyone who is pregnant or nursing should get a doctor’s approval before adding new skincare to a routine.
Dilauryl Citrate is not known to cause photosensitivity, so it does not make skin more prone to sunburn. It also has no recorded interactions with common actives like retinoids or acids, allowing it to fit easily into most regimens.
Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions
Responses to topical Dilauryl Citrate can vary from person to person. The points below outline potential side effects, yet most users will not experience them when the ingredient is properly formulated and used as intended.
- Mild skin irritation
- Contact allergy in individuals sensitive to fatty alcohol derivatives
- Occasional clogged pores or breakout flare in very acne-prone skin
If any redness, itching or breakouts worsen after application stop using the product and consult a healthcare professional.
Comedogenic Rating
Rating: 2 / 5
Although Dilauryl Citrate is built from lauryl alcohol, a fatty alcohol that can clog pores at higher levels, esterifying it with citric acid lowers the oiliness and makes the molecule less likely to block follicles. Most formulas use it at modest concentrations where it rarely triggers congestion, yet very acne-prone skin could still notice the occasional bump if the rest of the product is rich. Overall it is considered low comedogenic and is generally acceptable for breakout-prone users who monitor how their skin reacts.
No data suggest the ingredient alters sebum production or worsens hormonal acne, and its solid waxy form means formulators can balance it with lightweight oils to keep finished products breathable.
Summary
Dilauryl Citrate works mainly as a skin-conditioning emollient, forming a thin protective film that slows water loss and gives creams a velvety glide. By pairing a plant-derived fatty chain with citric acid, it delivers softness without a heavy greasy feel, which is why formulators slip it into night creams, lip balms and solid sticks.
While not a headline ingredient like hyaluronic acid or niacinamide, it enjoys steady use in richer moisturizers thanks to its sensory appeal and easy compatibility with both oils and butters. Safety testing shows a low irritation risk and no links to photosensitivity or major allergic reactions. As with any new cosmetic, patch test first to ensure your skin agrees with the full formula.