What Is Dilauryl Maleate/C20 Olefin Copolymer?
Dilauryl Maleate/C20 Olefin Copolymer is a lab made ingredient created by linking dilauryl maleate, a derivative of lauric acid from coconut or palm oil, with a C20 olefin, a twenty-carbon hydrocarbon. The result is a flexible film-forming material that behaves like a lightweight wax.
The cosmetic industry began using this copolymer in the late 1990s when formulators wanted a smoother alternative to traditional petrolatum and mineral waxes. Its rise also matched the demand for stable water-in-oil creams that feel elegant on the skin.
Manufacturing involves blending the two monomers, then running them through a controlled heat and pressure process so they bond into long chains. The finished solid flakes or pellets melt easily into oils and emulsions without leaving grit.
You will most often spot Dilauryl Maleate/C20 Olefin Copolymer in moisturizers, sunscreens, tinted lotions, hair styling creams, sheet mask essences, solid perfume sticks and anti-aging serums that need a silky finish and steady texture.
Dilauryl Maleate/C20 Olefin Copolymer’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses
This ingredient pulls triple duty in a formula, making it a handy tool for product chemists.
- Emulsion stabilising: Keeps water and oil phases from separating so lotions and creams stay smooth over their shelf life and during use
- Emollient: Softens skin and hair by forming a thin cushiony layer that reduces moisture loss and improves slip without feeling greasy
- Viscosity controlling: Thickens or fine-tunes the flow of liquids which helps products spread evenly and sit where they are applied
Who Can Use Dilauryl Maleate/C20 Olefin Copolymer
Because it acts as a light emollient that does not trap heat or block pores, Dilauryl Maleate/C20 Olefin Copolymer suits most skin types including dry, normal, combination and sensitive. Those with very oily or blemish prone skin usually tolerate it as well though they may prefer lower concentrations to avoid a heavy feel.
The copolymer comes from plant based lauric acid and synthetic hydrocarbon units so it contains no animal material. This makes it acceptable for vegans and vegetarians as long as the finished product has not been tested on animals.
Current safety data show no known risks for pregnant or breastfeeding women when the ingredient is used topically in standard cosmetic amounts. This information is not medical advice; anyone expecting or nursing should ask a healthcare professional before starting a new product just to be safe.
Dilauryl Maleate/C20 Olefin Copolymer does not absorb UV light or make skin more sensitive to the sun, so there is no added need for extra sun protection beyond the usual daily SPF recommendation.
Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions
Individual responses to any cosmetic ingredient can differ. The points below cover possible but uncommon reactions users might see if they apply Dilauryl Maleate/C20 Olefin Copolymer in a skin or hair product. When properly formulated most people experience none of these issues.
- Mild skin irritation or redness in very sensitive individuals
- Tiny breakouts or clogged pores if the formula also contains heavier oils or waxes
- Allergic contact dermatitis in people already allergic to related fatty acid derivatives
- Eye irritation if a product containing the ingredient is rubbed into the eye area
If you notice stinging, rash or any lasting discomfort stop using the product and consult a healthcare professional.
Comedogenic Rating
Rating: 1/5
Dilauryl Maleate/C20 Olefin Copolymer has a large, bulky structure that sits on top of the skin instead of sinking into pores, so the chance of it clogging them is low. It also creates a light breathable film rather than a heavy waxy coat. For these reasons it earns a 1 out of 5.
Most people who are prone to acne or breakouts can use products containing this ingredient without extra worry, as long as the rest of the formula is also low in pore-clogging materials.
Comedogenicity always depends on the full product, how much of the copolymer is used and how often it is applied, so results may vary from person to person.
Summary
Dilauryl Maleate/C20 Olefin Copolymer acts as an emulsion stabiliser, an emollient and a viscosity controller. It holds water and oil together by forming a flexible film at their boundary, softens skin with a thin cushion that slows moisture loss and adjusts thickness so creams feel smooth and stay in place.
While not as famous as ingredients like hyaluronic acid or shea butter, this copolymer shows up in a steady stream of modern lotions, sunscreens and styling creams thanks to its silky feel and reliable performance.
Current research finds it safe for topical use with only rare irritation reports. As with any new cosmetic, it is wise to patch test a small area first to make sure your skin agrees with the full formula.