What Is Dilinoleic Acid/Dilinoleyl Alcohol/Propanediol Copolymer?
Dilinoleic Acid/Dilinoleyl Alcohol/Propanediol Copolymer is a man-made ingredient created by linking together dilinoleic acid, dilinoleyl alcohol and propanediol. Dilinoleic acid and dilinoleyl alcohol come from plant oils rich in linoleic acid, most often non-GMO safflower or sunflower. Propanediol is a skin-friendly solvent that can be made from corn sugar. When chemists react these building blocks under controlled heat and vacuum, water is removed and a smooth, flexible copolymer forms.
The beauty industry began looking at this copolymer in the early 2000s when brands wanted alternatives to petroleum-based film formers. Because the raw materials are plant sourced and the final polymer is biodegradable, it quickly grabbed the attention of formulators focused on “greener” makeup and skin care.
Today you will spot the ingredient in long-wear foundations, mascaras, tinted moisturizers, transfer-resistant lip colors, lightweight face creams, sunscreens, leave-in hair conditioners and styling creams. Its ability to create an invisible, comfortable film makes it useful anywhere a product needs staying power without a heavy or sticky feel.
Dilinoleic Acid/Dilinoleyl Alcohol/Propanediol Copolymer’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses
This versatile copolymer improves both the feel and performance of many formulas. Its key roles include:
- Film forming: Creates a breathable shield that locks active ingredients in place, boosts water and rub resistance and helps makeup last longer on skin or lashes
- Plasticiser: Keeps the film flexible so it moves with facial expressions instead of cracking or flaking, giving a comfortable wear and a smooth finish
- Viscosity controlling: Adjusts thickness so lotions feel silky, creams glide on easily and hair products spread evenly without weighing strands down
Who Can Use Dilinoleic Acid/Dilinoleyl Alcohol/Propanediol Copolymer
This ingredient works for most skin types, including dry, oily and combination skin, because it forms a light breathable film that does not trap excess oil or strip moisture. Sensitive skin usually tolerates it well since the copolymer is inert and free of common irritants. Those with very acne-prone skin may still want to monitor how richer formulas feel, as heavy creams that also contain waxes or butters could contribute to congestion even though the copolymer itself is not known to clog pores.
It is plant sourced and contains no animal by-products so it fits vegan and vegetarian lifestyles.
No data suggests risk for pregnant or breastfeeding women when used topically at the low levels found in cosmetics, but this is not medical advice. Anyone who is expecting or nursing should review their routine with a qualified health professional for added peace of mind.
The copolymer does not increase photosensitivity so there is no special sun caution linked to its use. Standard daily sunscreen habits are still recommended for overall skin health.
Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions
Responses to topical Dilinoleic Acid/Dilinoleyl Alcohol/Propanediol Copolymer vary from person to person. The effects below are possible yet unlikely when the ingredient is used correctly in a finished product.
- Mild skin redness or stinging if an individual is allergic to one of the raw materials
- Temporary clogged pores if the product formula is very rich or layered heavily
- Eye irritation if a mascara or eye product containing the copolymer is not fully removed at night
If any discomfort or reaction occurs stop using the product and consult a healthcare professional or dermatologist.
Comedogenic Rating
Rating: 1 / 5
The copolymer molecules are large and sit on top of skin rather than seeping into pores, which keeps the chance of pore blockage low. While its fatty acid roots might sound heavy, the final polymer is lightweight and breathable so it does not encourage trapped sebum or bacterial overgrowth the way richer straight oils can.
Suitable for most acne-prone or breakout-prone users.
Keep in mind that overall formula matters; if the product also contains waxes, heavy oils or butters the final blend could still feel occlusive even though this single ingredient is not highly comedogenic.
Summary
Dilinoleic Acid/Dilinoleyl Alcohol/Propanediol Copolymer acts as a film former, plasticiser and viscosity controller. Its long flexible chains spread into a thin uniform layer that locks pigments or actives in place, while the built-in plasticising segments keep that layer supple so it bends with facial movement. By tweaking chain length chemists can dial in thickness, giving creams a silky glide or sprays a weightless feel.
The ingredient is gaining steady popularity in clean beauty circles because it offers plant-derived staying power without reliance on silicones or petroleum. It is still less common than legacy film formers but more brands adopt it each year.
Current data shows it is very safe for topical use with a low risk of irritation or pore clogging. As with any new product, doing a small patch test first is a smart way to spot rare sensitivities before full-face application.