What Is Dilinoleic Acid/Propanediol Copolymer?
Dilinoleic Acid/Propanediol Copolymer is a man-made ingredient created by linking together dilinoleic acid, a fatty acid usually sourced from vegetable oils like soybean or sunflower, with propanediol, a plant-derived glycol often made from corn sugar. The result is a large, flexible molecule that acts much differently than its starting parts.
Chemists first explored this copolymer in the early 2000s while searching for greener, petroleum-free film formers that could replace traditional plastics in cosmetics. Because both building blocks can come from renewable crops it quickly gained interest among brands focused on sustainability. Over the past decade it has moved from niche natural lines into a wide range of mainstream formulas.
Production starts with purifying the vegetable oil, splitting it to isolate dilinoleic acid then reacting it with propanediol under heat and vacuum. The process links the small molecules into long chains, which are then cooled, filtered and milled into a waxy, off-white solid or a thick viscous liquid depending on the grade needed.
You will most often see Dilinoleic Acid/Propanediol Copolymer in leave-on products that need a light flexible film such as moisturizing creams, anti-aging serums, sheet masks, hair styling creams, long-wear makeup and transfer-resistant sunscreens. It also pops up in nail care, mascara and skin-protecting balms.
Dilinoleic Acid/Propanediol Copolymer’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses
This multitasking ingredient boosts both texture and performance in many formulas.
- Film forming: Creates a breathable layer on skin or hair that locks in moisture, helps active ingredients stay put and improves wear time of makeup
- Plasticiser: Gives flexibility to otherwise brittle films so products like mascaras and eyeliners resist cracking and flaking
- Emollient: Softens and smooths the surface, adding a silky feel without a greasy aftertouch
- Viscosity controlling: Thickens or stabilizes formulations letting brands design creams or gels with the exact glide and cushion they want
Who Can Use Dilinoleic Acid/Propanediol Copolymer
This copolymer suits most skin and hair types. Its lightweight emollient nature makes it comfortable for dry or mature skin while the non greasy finish keeps it acceptable for combination and oily complexions. It is generally considered gentle enough for sensitive skin as the large polymer molecule stays on the surface instead of penetrating deeply, minimizing the chance of stinging or redness.
The ingredient is produced from plant sourced fatty acids and corn derived propanediol, with no animal derived inputs or animal testing required for its manufacture. That makes it appropriate for vegans and vegetarians looking to avoid animal by-products.
Current safety assessments have found no developmental or reproductive concerns from topical use, so products containing Dilinoleic Acid/Propanediol Copolymer are usually regarded as suitable during pregnancy and breastfeeding. This is not medical advice; anyone who is pregnant or nursing should show the full ingredient list of any product to their healthcare provider before use to be sure it fits their personal situation.
The polymer does not absorb UV light, does not increase photosensitivity and will not make skin more prone to sunburn. It is also odorless and free of common allergens like gluten or nuts, adding to its broad compatibility.
Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions
Side effects from topical Dilinoleic Acid/Propanediol Copolymer can vary from person to person. The points below outline potential reactions only; most users will never encounter them when the ingredient is used at normal cosmetic levels.
- Mild skin irritation: rare reports of temporary redness or tingling in very sensitive individuals
- Contact dermatitis: extremely uncommon allergic response that may lead to itching or small rash patches
- Follicular occlusion: in heavy formulas the added film may trap oil around hair follicles leading to tiny white bumps, mainly on acne-prone skin
- Eye discomfort: if a high concentration product such as mascara accidentally enters the eye it can cause watering or stinging until rinsed out
If any unwanted reaction occurs stop using the product and consult a healthcare professional for guidance.
Comedogenic Rating
Rating: 1/5. Although it comes from fatty acid roots the molecule is a large, branched polymer that sits mostly on the surface and creates a breathable film instead of sinking into pores. It has a light, non greasy feel and does not feed acne bacteria, yet in very rich or waxy formulas the film can trap existing oil which is why it is not a perfect zero.
Sensitive or acne-prone users generally tolerate it well and most will not experience clogged pores.
Real-world breakouts are more likely to depend on the overall formula. If the copolymer is paired with heavy butters or waxes the final product could feel more occlusive than the ingredient alone.
Summary
Dilinoleic Acid/Propanediol Copolymer works as a film former, plasticiser, emollient and viscosity controller. Its long flexible chains spread into a thin uniform layer that locks in moisture and holds pigments or actives in place. At the same time the polymer softens brittle films and adds slip so creams, gels and makeup glide on smoothly without leaving a greasy residue. Because the chains can tangle with each other they also boost thickness giving formulators precise control over texture.
The ingredient is growing in popularity, especially with brands that market plant-based or sustainable technology, but it is still less common than classic silicones and synthetic resins so you may not spot it on every label yet.
Current safety data shows very low irritation or sensitisation potential and no systemic concerns, making it a generally safe pick for daily skincare or makeup. As with any new cosmetic it is smart to patch test a fresh product containing this copolymer to confirm your skin’s personal response.