Dilinoleic Acid/Sebacic Acid/Piperazine/Ethylenediamine Copolymer: What Is It, Cosmetic Uses, Benefits & Side Effects

Curious about this ingredient? In this article we're explaining exactly what it is and why it's used within cosmetic formulations.
Updated on: June 27, 2025
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We verify all information on this page using publicly available nomenclature standards from The Personal Care Products Council (PCPC), the European Commission's CosIng database and documentation provided directly by ingredient manufacturers. Our analysis is based on technical data from these sources to ensure accuracy and reliability.

What Is Dilinoleic Acid/Sebacic Acid/Piperazine/Ethylenediamine Copolymer?

Dilinoleic Acid/Sebacic Acid/Piperazine/Ethylenediamine Copolymer is a synthetic polymer built from four building blocks: dilinoleic acid, sebacic acid, piperazine and ethylenediamine. Dilinoleic and sebacic acids come from plant oils such as soybean and castor, while piperazine and ethylenediamine are small nitrogen-rich molecules produced in the chemical industry. When these monomers react together they form long, flexible chains that behave like a clear, breathable film once spread on skin or hair.

The material first appeared in industrial coatings where a tough yet bendable film was needed. Formulators soon noticed that the same qualities could lock makeup in place and protect skin so the polymer made its way into beauty labs in the early 2000s. Today it is created through a controlled condensation process: the acids and amines are heated under precise conditions, water is removed and the growing chains link up until the target molecular weight is reached. The finished copolymer is then purified, dried and milled into a fine powder or supplied as a pre-diluted solution for ease of use.

You will most often see this ingredient in long-wear foundations, mascaras, eyeliners, liquid lipsticks, transfer-resistant sunscreens, hair gels, leave-in conditioners, sheet masks and certain lightweight moisturizers where a non-occlusive protective layer is desired.

Dilinoleic Acid/Sebacic Acid/Piperazine/Ethylenediamine Copolymer’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses

In formulas this copolymer serves two main roles that improve how a product looks, feels and lasts on the body

  • Film forming: Once the product is applied the polymer dries into an invisible film that anchors pigments, actives and oils to the skin or hair. This boosts water resistance, reduces smudging and helps makeup stay fresh for longer hours. On hair it adds light hold and frizz control without a stiff or sticky feel.
  • Viscosity controlling: The long polymer chains thicken water-based systems so creams, gels and sprays achieve a smooth, even texture. This keeps ingredients from separating and allows for an easy, streak-free application.

Who Can Use Dilinoleic Acid/Sebacic Acid/Piperazine/Ethylenediamine Copolymer

This polymer works well for nearly all skin types. Because it forms a light breathable film instead of a heavy seal it is generally comfortable on oily combination and normal skin. Dry skin can use it too, although it will still need a separate moisturizer for lasting hydration. Those with very sensitive or redness-prone skin usually tolerate the ingredient since it contains no fragrance or known sensitizing impurities, but every formula is different so check the full ingredient list.

The raw material comes from plant oils and laboratory-made amines and involves no animal-derived substances, making it suitable for vegans and vegetarians. Finished products that include the polymer can still contain beeswax or carmine, so label reading is advised if a fully animal-free routine is important to you.

Current safety data show no special risks for pregnancy or breastfeeding because the molecule is large and stays on the surface rather than soaking into the bloodstream. That said this is not medical advice, and anyone who is pregnant or nursing should run new skincare or makeup past a qualified doctor to be safe.

Dilinoleic Acid/Sebacic Acid/Piperazine/Ethylenediamine Copolymer does not cause photosensitivity and will not make skin more prone to sunburn. It can even help sunscreen stay in place by boosting water resistance.

Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions

Reactions to topical Dilinoleic Acid/Sebacic Acid/Piperazine/Ethylenediamine Copolymer vary from person to person. The points below outline potential issues only and most users will not experience them when the ingredient is used at normal cosmetic levels.

  • Mild skin irritation such as redness or itching, most often when applied to already compromised or broken skin
  • Allergic contact dermatitis in individuals sensitive to amine residues or the finished formula
  • Eye stinging or watering if mascara or eyeliner containing the polymer is not fully dry before blinking
  • Product buildup or dullness on hair after repeated use without thorough cleansing
  • Occasional clogged pores for acne-prone users if heavy layers are left on overnight

If any unwanted reaction occurs stop using the product and seek guidance from a healthcare professional or dermatologist.

Comedogenic Rating

Rating: 1 / 5

Dilinoleic Acid/Sebacic Acid/Piperazine/Ethylenediamine Copolymer forms a lightweight film that sits on top of the skin rather than melting into pores like a traditional oil, so it has very little tendency to trap sebum and debris. Occasional clogged pores can happen if heavy, layered makeup is not removed at night, which is why the rating is not a full zero.

Overall the ingredient is considered suitable for acne-prone or breakout-prone skin.

Keep in mind that the final product formula and cleansing habits play a bigger role in breakouts than this polymer itself.

Summary

Dilinoleic Acid/Sebacic Acid/Piperazine/Ethylenediamine Copolymer mainly acts as a film former and viscosity controller. Its long chain structure dries into a clear flexible mesh that locks pigments, actives and water into place making makeup and sunscreen last longer and resist smudging. At the same time the chains thicken water-based formulas so creams, gels and sprays feel smooth and never runny.

The polymer is moderately popular, most often found in long-wear foundations, waterproof mascaras and high-performance sunscreens rather than everyday moisturizers, but its use is steadily growing as brands look for breathable alternatives to heavier resins.

Current safety data show it is well tolerated for most skin types with a very low risk of irritation or sensitization. As with any new cosmetic ingredient it is wise to patch test a product before full-face use just to be sure your skin agrees with it.

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