What Is Dimer Dilinoleyl Bis-Lauroyl Sarcosinate/Myristoyl Methyl Beta-Alaninate?
Dimer Dilinoleyl Bis-Lauroyl Sarcosinate/Myristoyl Methyl Beta-Alaninate is a specialty ester created by condensing dilinoleyl alcohol, a fatty alcohol derived from linoleic acid rich plant oils, with two mild amino-acid based surfactants, Lauroyl Sarcosine and Myristoyl Methyl Beta-Alanine. The result is a large, flexible molecule that behaves like a lightweight lipid, yet carries the smoothness often linked to amino acids.
The concept of combining fatty chains with sarcosinate chemistry gained attention in the early 2000s when formulators began searching for silicone alternatives that could offer slip without buildup. By attaching two different amino-acid surfactants to a dimerized linoleic backbone, chemists produced an ingredient that hugs the skin or hair surface with a thin breathable film. It entered commercial cosmetic catalogs shortly after and is now supplied as a viscous, pale yellow liquid.
Manufacturing starts with dimerization of linoleic acid to create a branched C36 fatty acid. This is reduced to dilinoleyl alcohol, then reacted with activated forms of Lauroyl Sarcosine and Myristoyl Methyl Beta-Alanine under controlled heat and vacuum. The condensation steps remove water, yielding the final multifunctional ester, which is purified and stabilized with antioxidants.
You will spot this ingredient in leave-in hair conditioners, color-care masks, anti-frizz serums, skin-softening body lotions, lightweight facial moisturizers, balm cleansers and long-wear makeup products where it helps pigments stay put.
Dimer Dilinoleyl Bis-Lauroyl Sarcosinate/Myristoyl Methyl Beta-Alaninate’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses
Its multitasking nature allows formulators to replace several conventional additives with a single, skin-friendly molecule.
- Binding: Improves the cohesion of powders or pigments in pressed makeup, sunscreens and long-wear foundations, reducing crumbling and fallout
- Hair Conditioning: Deposits a thin lubricating layer on the strand surface that boosts slip, detangling and softness without heavy residue
- Skin Conditioning: Leaves skin feeling silky and supple, enhancing afterfeel in lotions, creams and cleansing balms
- Emollient: Replenishes lipids, reinforces the skin barrier and adds a smooth, non-greasy finish ideal for lightweight or oil-free claims
Who Can Use Dimer Dilinoleyl Bis-Lauroyl Sarcosinate/Myristoyl Methyl Beta-Alaninate
This silky ester suits most skin types, from dry and mature to normal and combination. Oily or acne-prone skin can still enjoy it since it feels lightweight and has a low tendency to clog pores, though users dealing with severe congestion might prefer to monitor how their skin responds when first adding any new lipid-rich product.
The ingredient is synthesized from plant-derived linoleic acid plus laboratory made amino acid derivatives, so it is free of animal by-products and is therefore considered suitable for vegetarians and vegans.
Current safety data show no specific risks for pregnant or breastfeeding women when the ingredient is used as intended in cosmetics. That said, this is not medical advice and anyone who is expecting or nursing should run any skincare product past a qualified healthcare provider to be on the safe side.
Unlike exfoliating acids or retinoids, Dimer Dilinoleyl Bis-Lauroyl Sarcosinate/Myristoyl Methyl Beta-Alaninate does not make skin more sensitive to the sun. Standard daytime sun protection habits are still encouraged for overall skin health.
Because it is mild and free of common irritants like fragrance allergens and preservatives, it is generally well tolerated by sensitive skin groups, including those prone to redness or dryness.
Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions
Side effects and reactions to the topical application of Dimer Dilinoleyl Bis-Lauroyl Sarcosinate/Myristoyl Methyl Beta-Alaninate can vary from person to person. The points below list potential effects only and they are unlikely to be the typical experience for most users when the ingredient is formulated correctly.
- Mild irritation such as fleeting redness or warmth, usually linked to very sensitive skin or overuse of multiple active products in the same routine
- Contact dermatitis in rare cases where an individual is allergic to one of the raw material residues used in manufacturing
- Breakouts for a small subset of acne-prone users if layered with several other rich emollients that collectively overwhelm the pores
If any persistent stinging, rash or breakout develops discontinue use and consult a healthcare professional or dermatologist.
Comedogenic Rating
Rating: 1 out of 5. Dimer Dilinoleyl Bis-Lauroyl Sarcosinate/Myristoyl Methyl Beta-Alaninate sits on the surface as a light lipid film and its large branched structure makes it unlikely to slip into pores and harden inside them. Current lab and field tests show little tendency to trigger blackheads or whiteheads, so most acne-prone users can use it without problems. As with any emollient the finished formula matters, so pairing it with very heavy oils or waxes could raise the overall clogging risk.
Summary
Dimer Dilinoleyl Bis-Lauroyl Sarcosinate/Myristoyl Methyl Beta-Alaninate acts as a binder, hair conditioner, skin conditioner and emollient. It achieves this by wrapping skin or hair in a breathable lipid layer that smooths texture, locks in moisture, helps pigments grip and detangles strands without weight. While not a household name it is quietly gaining traction among formulators looking for silicone-free slip and long wear.
Available safety data label it as low-irritant and non-sensitising when used at cosmetic levels, making it suitable for most users including sensitive skin. Still, everyone’s skin is unique so it is smart to patch test any new product containing this ingredient before full use.