What Is Dimer Dilinoleyl Bis-Lauroylglutamate/Lauroylsarcosinate?
Dimer Dilinoleyl Bis-Lauroylglutamate/Lauroylsarcosinate is a specialty ingredient made by linking dilinoleyl alcohol, a fatty substance from plant oils, with two mild amino-acid based actives: lauroyl glutamic acid and lauroyl sarcosine. The result is a large, oil-loving molecule that can slip into skin-care formulas to boost softness and stability. It first appeared in the early 2000s when formulators were hunting for plant-derived replacements for petroleum emollients. By combining renewable fatty acids with amino acids, chemists created a gentle ingredient that feels luxurious yet stays skin-friendly.
The manufacturing process begins with dilinoleic acid sourced from soybean or sunflower oil. This fatty acid is turned into dilinoleyl alcohol, then reacted with lauroyl derivatives of glutamic acid and sarcosine under controlled heat to form the final condensate. The finished ingredient is usually a clear to pale amber liquid that blends well with oils, butters and silicone substitutes.
You will most often see it in rich moisturizers, overnight masks, anti-aging creams, cleansing balms and high-end color cosmetics where a smooth cushiony feel is desired. Because it helps bind oil and water phases it also pops up in lightweight lotions and serum-gel hybrids that aim for a silky after-feel without greasiness.
Dimer Dilinoleyl Bis-Lauroylglutamate/Lauroylsarcosinate’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses
Formulators choose this ingredient for several practical reasons
- Binding: It acts as a gentle emulsifier that holds oil and water together, keeping a formula uniform so the active ingredients deliver evenly with every use
- Skin conditioning: Its fatty acid backbone softens the outer skin layer, smoothing rough spots and improving flexibility for a healthier looking surface
- Emollient: The velvety texture creates a light occlusive film that locks in moisture, giving products a luxe glide and reducing transepidermal water loss
Who Can Use Dimer Dilinoleyl Bis-Lauroylglutamate/Lauroylsarcosinate?
This ingredient sits comfortably in formulas for almost every skin type. Its lightweight fatty structure softens dry patches without leaving a heavy film so dry or mature skin enjoys the extra cushion, while its non greasy finish keeps combination and oily complexions from feeling weighed down. The molecule is large and unlikely to penetrate deeply which makes it gentle enough for sensitive skin, though extremely reactive skin should always proceed with added caution.
Dimer Dilinoleyl Bis-Lauroylglutamate/Lauroylsarcosinate is derived from plant oils and amino acids and contains no animal sourced material or by-products, making it suitable for both vegan and vegetarian lifestyles.
No research flags the ingredient as a concern for women who are pregnant or breastfeeding because it remains on the skin’s surface and is not known to interfere with hormonal pathways. This is not medical advice and anyone expecting or nursing should show their chosen products to a qualified healthcare provider just to be safe.
The molecule does not make skin more sensitive to sunlight so photosensitivity is not an issue. It also plays well with common actives like retinol, vitamin C and niacinamide because it is relatively inert and non ionic.
Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions
Reactions to topical Dimer Dilinoleyl Bis-Lauroylglutamate/Lauroylsarcosinate differ from person to person. The following are possible side effects but they are uncommon when the ingredient is formulated and used correctly.
- Mild skin irritation or redness
- Transient itching or stinging on very sensitive skin
- Clogged pores in individuals already prone to congestion
- Allergic contact dermatitis in people with a specific sensitivity to fatty acid derivatives
- Temporary eye discomfort if the product accidentally gets into the eyes
If you experience any of these reactions stop using the product and consult a healthcare professional or dermatologist for guidance.
Comedogenic Rating
Rating: 1/5
The bulky amino acid-fatty acid structure stays mostly on the surface and is more rinsable than heavier plant oils, so it rarely blocks pores.
Generally suitable for acne prone skin, though very oily users should still judge the overall formula rather than the single ingredient.
If paired with waxes or rich butters the finished product may feel heavier than the ingredient’s low rating suggests, something to note for those monitoring pore congestion.
Summary
Dimer Dilinoleyl Bis-Lauroylglutamate/Lauroylsarcosinate binds oil and water, conditions skin and provides lightweight emolliency by tucking its fatty tails into the oil phase while its amino acid parts interact with water. This dual nature stabilises creams, smooths rough patches and forms a thin breathable barrier that slows moisture escape.
It remains a boutique choice seen mostly in high end moisturisers, balms and colour cosmetics rather than everyday drugstore ranges, loved by formulators for its silky afterfeel.
Studies and in-use history point to a strong safety profile with minimal irritation risk. Still, it is smart to patch test any new product that includes it to ensure your skin tolerates the complete formula.