Dimer Dilinoleyl Isostearate: What Is It, Cosmetic Uses, Benefits & Side Effects

Curious about this ingredient? In this article we're explaining exactly what it is and why it's used within cosmetic formulations.
Updated on: June 27, 2025
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We verify all information on this page using publicly available nomenclature standards from The Personal Care Products Council (PCPC), the European Commission's CosIng database and documentation provided directly by ingredient manufacturers. Our analysis is based on technical data from these sources to ensure accuracy and reliability.

What Is Dimer Dilinoleyl Isostearate?

Dimer Dilinoleyl Isostearate is a specialty ester created by combining isostearic acid with a dimer of linoleyl alcohol. Both building blocks trace back to fatty acids that occur naturally in plant oils such as soybean, safflower and sunflower so the ingredient has a largely vegetable origin. Chemists first explored these complex esters in the late twentieth century when cosmetic labs searched for richer yet lightweight alternatives to mineral oil. Through a controlled esterification process, the fatty acid and the dimerized alcohol are reacted under heat with a catalyst, then purified to remove any unreacted materials. The result is a clear viscous liquid that feels cushiony on skin and hair, resists oxidation and remains fluid even at low temperatures.

Thanks to these qualities, Dimer Dilinoleyl Isostearate shows up in products that need long lasting softness or flexible film-forming ability. You will often find it in lipsticks, liquid lip colors, tinted balms, long wear foundations, facial moisturizers, night creams, sheet masks, hair masks, leave-in conditioners, styling creams and sunscreens.

Dimer Dilinoleyl Isostearate’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses

This multitasking ester supports both the feel and performance of many beauty formulas

  • Binding: Helps pigments and powders stay evenly dispersed so color cosmetics apply smoothly without streaking or fallout
  • Hair Conditioning: Forms a light protective layer along the hair shaft that boosts softness shine and combability while reducing static
  • Skin Conditioning: Creates a breathable film that holds moisture on the surface leaving skin supple and comfortable
  • Emollient: Provides an immediate silky glide that reduces roughness and fills in fine surface lines for a smoother appearance

Who Can Use Dimer Dilinoleyl Isostearate

Dimer Dilinoleyl Isostearate is generally well tolerated by most skin types. Dry, normal and combination skin benefit most from the cushioning moisture it provides while sensitive skin usually enjoys its low irritation profile. Very oily or acne prone complexions may find the rich texture feels heavier than preferred, though the ingredient itself is considered low to medium on the pore clogging scale.

The ester is sourced from plant derived fatty acids and no animal byproducts are involved in its manufacture, so it is suitable for both vegans and vegetarians as long as the finished formula also meets their criteria.

No research shows that the ingredient poses specific risks to women who are pregnant or breastfeeding. That said this is not medical advice and anyone expecting or nursing should discuss all personal care products with a qualified healthcare provider to be safe.

Dimer Dilinoleyl Isostearate does not cause photosensitivity and will not make skin more vulnerable to sunburn. It is also odorless, color stable and free of volatile solvents, traits that make it a gentle choice for leave on products used year round.

Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions

Responses to topical Dimer Dilinoleyl Isostearate vary from person to person. The points below cover potential side effects but most users experience none of them when the ingredient is used correctly in well formulated products.

  • Mild redness or stinging on very reactive skin
  • Contact dermatitis in individuals with a specific fatty acid sensitivity
  • Temporary clogged pores or breakouts on highly acne prone skin
  • Watery eyes or slight irritation if the product migrates into the eye area
  • Build up on fine hair that can make strands feel weighed down if not shampooed regularly

If any of these effects occur discontinue use and consult a medical professional or dermatologist for guidance.

Comedogenic Rating

Rating: 2/5

Dimer Dilinoleyl Isostearate comes from long chain fatty acids that could potentially settle into pores, yet its branched isostearic backbone keeps the molecule bulky so it is less likely to compact inside follicles. Formulas typically include it at modest levels and balance it with lighter fluids that lower the overall occlusive feel, keeping the ingredient in the low to mid range for pore clogging.

Most acne prone users tolerate it, though very oily congested skin may prefer lighter alternatives in leave on products.

Real world comedogenicity depends on the full recipe, usage level and individual skin chemistry so personal results can vary.

Summary

Dimer Dilinoleyl Isostearate serves as a pigment binder, emollient, skin conditioner and hair conditioning agent by forming a thin flexible film that smooths texture, traps moisture and keeps powders evenly dispersed. Its cushioned slip benefits lipsticks, creams, foundations and hair masks without leaving a heavy oily feel.

The ester is not a headline grabbing name yet it appears in many mainstream and indie formulas because it offers the richness of plant oils with better stability and a vegan source.

Safety studies and years of market use rate it as low risk with only occasional irritation or congestion for sensitive users. Still, patch testing any new product containing Dimer Dilinoleyl Isostearate is a wise practice to ensure your skin or scalp reacts well.

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