What Is Dimethicone Peg-8 Borageate?
Dimethicone Peg-8 Borageate is a hybrid ingredient that combines a lightweight silicone (PEG-8 dimethicone) with fatty acids pressed from borage seed oil, creating a partial ester that brings together the best traits of both worlds. The silicone side delivers slip and a silky feel while the borage fatty acids, rich in the omega-6 fatty acid gamma linolenic acid, contribute nourishing lipids.
Silicones first gained popularity in beauty products during the 1950s for their smoothing properties. As consumer interest in plant derived ingredients grew in the 1990s formulators began grafting botanical oils onto silicones to improve compatibility with skin and hair. Dimethicone Peg-8 Borageate emerged from this trend, offering a softer more breathable silicone that also taps into the soothing reputation of borage oil.
The ingredient is produced through an esterification step that links the hydroxyl groups of PEG-8 dimethicone with the carboxylic groups of borage fatty acids under controlled heat and catalysts. The result is a fluid, pourable material that disperses easily in both water based and oil based systems.
You will usually spot Dimethicone Peg-8 Borageate in leave in conditioners, anti frizz serums, hair masks, face moisturizers, primers, BB creams, after sun lotions and soothing balms. Its versatility lets formulators add a velvety finish without the heavy buildup sometimes linked to older silicones.
Dimethicone Peg-8 Borageate’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses
This multi tasking ester adds performance and sensory perks to a wide range of beauty products.
- Hair Conditioning – forms a thin, flexible film over the hair shaft that smooths cuticles, reduces frizz and makes detangling easier while adding light shine
- Skin Conditioning – leaves a soft non greasy finish that can temporarily fill in fine lines, improve suppleness and support the skin barrier thanks to the borage derived lipids
- Emollient – supplies slip during application and helps lock in moisture, enhancing the overall feel of creams, lotions and serums
Who Can Use Dimethicone Peg-8 Borageate
This ingredient is generally suitable for all skin types including dry, normal, combination and oily since it delivers lightweight hydration without a heavy greasy feel. Those with very acne prone or highly sensitive skin usually tolerate it well because the silicone backbone reduces the chance of clogging pores or causing redness. However if a person already reacts poorly to silicones or botanical oils they may prefer to avoid it.
Dimethicone Peg-8 Borageate is synthesized from silicone and borage seed oil with no animal derived inputs so it is considered appropriate for vegans and vegetarians.
No specific warnings exist for pregnant or breastfeeding women. The molecule is used topically, has negligible skin penetration and is not known to interfere with hormones. That said this is not medical advice and anyone who is pregnant or nursing should show the full ingredient list of any product they plan to use to a qualified health professional first.
The ester does not increase photosensitivity, so it will not make skin more prone to sunburn. It also plays nicely with most other cosmetic actives including retinoids, vitamin C and exfoliating acids. As with any occlusive ingredient a gentle cleanser at the end of the day helps prevent residue buildup.
Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions
Reactions to topical Dimethicone Peg-8 Borageate vary from person to person. The following is a list of potential side effects that can occur, though most users will not experience them when the ingredient is formulated and used correctly.
- Transient clogged pores or breakouts in individuals extremely prone to acne
- Mild redness or stinging on very sensitive or compromised skin
- Allergic contact dermatitis in rare cases of borage seed oil allergy
- Weighed down hair or scalp buildup if applied in excessive amounts
If any unwanted reaction develops stop using the product and seek advice from a medical professional or dermatologist.
Comedogenic Rating
Rating: 1 / 5
Dimethicone Peg-8 Borageate scores a 1 because its silicone backbone is classified as non occlusive and easily spreadable while the PEG portion increases water dispersibility, reducing the risk of pore blockage. The borage fatty acids are present as part of an ester so they are less likely to sit heavily on skin compared with untreated oils. Overall this light fluid texture lets it escape most of the pitfalls that raise comedogenicity scores.
Suitable for acne prone users, though extremely oily complexions may still prefer lighter gel based formulas.
Keep in mind that a final product’s overall pore clogging potential depends on the full recipe; pairing this ester with heavy waxes or butters can raise the number.
Summary
Dimethicone Peg-8 Borageate conditions hair, conditions skin and acts as an emollient by forming a soft breathable film that smooths cuticles, fills fine lines and seals in moisture while its borage derived lipids add flexibility and nourishment. These combined traits offer a silky after feel without the buildup linked to older silicones.
It appears in a modest but growing share of leave in conditioners, primers and soothing lotions as brands look for plant boosted silicones that deliver slip yet feel weightless.
Topical use is regarded as low risk thanks to minimal absorption and a long history of safe silicone use. Still, every formula and skin type is unique so do a small patch test whenever you try a new product containing this ester.