What Is Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone/Oleyl Erucate Crosspolymer?
Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone/Oleyl Erucate Crosspolymer is a silicone-based polymer made by chemically linking three ingredients: dimethicone, vinyl dimethicone and oleyl erucate. Dimethicone and vinyl dimethicone are smooth, flexible silicones, while oleyl erucate is an emollient ester typically obtained from rapeseed or canola oil. When these raw materials are reacted and crosslinked they form a soft, sponge-like network that swells in oils but stays put on skin. Silicones entered beauty labs in the 1950s for their silky after-feel, and crosslinked versions like this one became popular in the early 2000s as formulators looked for weightless alternatives to heavy waxes. Production involves hydrosilylation and controlled curing that locks the three building blocks into a stable lattice, which is then milled into a fine powder or delivered pre-swelled in a carrier oil. You will spot this ingredient in face primers, liquid foundations, BB creams, moisturizers, sunscreens, sheet masks, hair smoothing serums and long-wear lip or eye products wherever a velvety, flexible film is desired.
Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone/Oleyl Erucate Crosspolymer’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses
This ingredient is valued for one primary function that delivers several noticeable benefits in everyday beauty formulas.
Film forming: It creates an invisible, lightweight layer that clings gently to skin or hair. The film locks in moisture, boosts spreadability, blurs fine lines, enhances water and sweat resistance and helps pigments and actives stay in place longer without feeling heavy or greasy.
Who Can Use Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone/Oleyl Erucate Crosspolymer
This silky film former is generally suitable for all skin types. Oily and combination skin appreciate the weightless feel and shine control, while dry or mature skin benefit from the soft cushion it provides over flaky areas. Sensitive skin usually tolerates it well because the molecule is large and stays on the surface instead of sinking in and causing stinging. The only group that may want to be cautious is extremely acne-prone skin in the middle of a breakout, as any film former can potentially trap excess sebum and heat if cleansing is not thorough.
The ingredient is considered vegan and vegetarian friendly. It is synthesized from silicones and plant-derived oleyl erucate, with no animal by-products used during manufacturing.
Pregnant or breastfeeding women are not known to face added risk when using this polymer because it is inert and does not penetrate skin. That said this is not medical advice and anyone expecting or nursing should run new products past a qualified healthcare provider for personal guidance.
Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone/Oleyl Erucate Crosspolymer does not cause photosensitivity so it will not make skin more prone to sunburn. It also has no known interactions with common skincare actives like retinol or vitamin C.
Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions
Reactions to topical Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone/Oleyl Erucate Crosspolymer vary from person to person. The points below list potential side effects but most users will not experience them when the ingredient is properly formulated and used as directed.
- Mild clogged pores or breakouts rare cases in very oil-rich skin types if cleansing habits are insufficient
- Contact redness or itching uncommon irritation for those with a silicone sensitivity
- Transient eye watering if the product accidentally migrates into the eyes before it sets
- Product buildup on hair strands when used in leave-in hair care without regular clarifying washes
If any discomfort or unusual reaction occurs stop use and seek advice from a healthcare professional.
Comedogenic Rating
Rating: 1/5. This crosslinked silicone stays on top of skin thanks to its large inert structure, so it rarely blocks pores or mixes with sebum. The lightweight film can hold existing oil against the skin if cleansing is poor, yet the polymer itself does not feed acne bacteria or cause excess shine.
Most acne-prone users tolerate it without additional breakouts.
The overall formula matters too; pairing the polymer with heavy butters or waxes can raise clogging potential more than the ingredient on its own.
Summary
Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone/Oleyl Erucate Crosspolymer works mainly as a film former that creates an airy flexible veil to lock in moisture, improve spreadability, boost wear time and soften the look of lines on skin and hair. It achieves this by swelling in oils then linking into a micro lattice that moves with you while sealing the surface.
While not as well known as plain dimethicone it is quietly popular in primers, transfer-resistant makeup, modern sunscreens and lightweight serums where a velvet finish is prized.
Safety is generally excellent because the molecule is non reactive and remains on the surface until washed away, yet it is always sensible to patch test a new product to be sure your skin agrees.