Dimethylaminopropylamino Hypocrellin B: What Is It, Cosmetic Uses, Benefits & Side Effects

Curious about this ingredient? In this article we're explaining exactly what it is and why it's used within cosmetic formulations.
Updated on: June 27, 2025
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We verify all information on this page using publicly available nomenclature standards from The Personal Care Products Council (PCPC), the European Commission's CosIng database and documentation provided directly by ingredient manufacturers. Our analysis is based on technical data from these sources to ensure accuracy and reliability.

What Is Dimethylaminopropylamino Hypocrellin B?

Dimethylaminopropylamino Hypocrellin B is a lab refined version of hypocrellin B, a deep-red pigment that naturally occurs in certain bamboo-dwelling fungi such as Shiraia bambusicola. Chemically it belongs to the perylene quinone family and its full name, 2-(N,N-Dimethylaminopropyl)amino-15-acetyl-2,10-dihydroxy-6,7,11-trimethoxy-14-methyl-15H-cyclohepta(ghi)perylene-4,9-dione, hints at the several small side groups that are added to the original molecule to fine-tune its behavior on skin. These tweaks increase its solubility and make it more efficient at weakening the bonds that hold hair shafts in place.

The journey from forest fungus to beauty shelf began in the late 1990s when researchers explored hypocrellin pigments for light-activated therapies. During that work they noticed that certain modified versions could break down keratin, the main protein in hair, even without strong alkaline agents. Cosmetic chemists later adopted the molecule because it offered a gentler way to remove unwanted hair compared with classic sulfur-based depilatories.

Production usually starts with the fermentation of the source fungus in stainless steel tanks. The crude pigment is extracted, purified then reacted with dimethylaminopropylamine and an acetyl donor under controlled temperatures. After purification and strict safety testing the finished ingredient is either dissolved or microencapsulated so formulators can blend it smoothly into consumer products.

You will most often see Dimethylaminopropylamino Hypocrellin B in hair removal creams, quick-rinse depilatory gels, pre-wax conditioning masks and touch-up pens designed for small areas like the upper lip or bikini line.

Dimethylaminopropylamino Hypocrellin B’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses

In personal care formulations this ingredient serves one main purpose.

As a depilatory, Dimethylaminopropylamino Hypocrellin B helps dissolve the structural proteins that anchor hair at the skin surface. By softening keratin it allows the hair to wipe or rinse away in minutes, giving smoother skin without the stinging or strong odor often linked with older thioglycolate-based products.

Who Can Use Dimethylaminopropylamino Hypocrellin B

Most skin types can tolerate Dimethylaminopropylamino Hypocrellin B because it works at a near-neutral pH and does not rely on harsh alkalines. Normal, combination and oily skin generally handle it well while very sensitive or eczema-prone skin may find any depilatory action irritating due to an already weakened barrier.

The ingredient is produced by fermenting fungus and refining the resulting pigment without using animal-derived materials which makes it suitable for vegans and vegetarians.

Current safety data do not point to specific risks for pregnant or breastfeeding users when the ingredient is applied topically and rinsed off as directed. That said this is not medical advice and anyone who is pregnant or nursing should review all personal care products with their healthcare professional.

Perylene pigments can react to light although the dimethylaminopropylamino modification reduces this property. A brief period of mild photosensitivity right after use is still possible so protecting treated skin with clothing or sunscreen is sensible if it will be exposed to strong daylight.

Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions

Responses to topical Dimethylaminopropylamino Hypocrellin B vary from person to person. The following is a list of potential side effects that could occur even though most users will not experience them when the ingredient is formulated and used correctly.

  • Tingling or mild burning during application
  • Temporary redness or warmth after hair removal
  • Dry or flaky patches if left on skin longer than directed
  • Allergic contact dermatitis in individuals sensitive to perylene pigments or amine groups
  • Transient light sensitivity on treated areas
  • Staining of towels or clothing if the product is not fully rinsed away

If any uncomfortable or persistent reaction occurs stop use immediately and seek advice from a qualified healthcare professional.

Comedogenic Rating

Rating: 1/5

Dimethylaminopropylamino Hypocrellin B is a water-miscible pigment that is typically used in rinse-off depilatory formulas, so it spends little time sitting inside pores. It contains no heavy oils or waxes that could clog follicles which keeps its comedogenic potential low. A tiny chance of pore blockage remains if the product is not rinsed thoroughly or if the formula also contains richer emollients, hence the score of 1 rather than 0.

This low rating means the ingredient is generally suitable for people who are prone to acne or breakouts.

Because the molecule is vividly colored, any residue left on the skin could be visible which helps users spot unwashed areas and avoid unintended buildup.

Summary

Dimethylaminopropylamino Hypocrellin B is mainly valued as a depilatory that weakens the keratin bonds in hair shafts so they can be wiped away for smooth skin. It achieves this by combining the natural protein-disrupting activity of hypocrellin with extra side groups that improve solubility and efficacy at a mild pH.

While not as famous as thioglycolates or waxing resins the ingredient is gaining quiet popularity among brands looking for gentler odor-free hair removal options.

Current data show it is well tolerated by most skin types with only a low risk of irritation or pore clogging when used as directed. As with any new skincare ingredient it is smart to perform a patch test before full use to ensure personal comfort and safety.

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