What Is Dioctyldodeceth-5 Lauroyl Glutamate?
Dioctyldodeceth-5 Lauroyl Glutamate is a specialty ingredient created from three familiar building blocks: the amino acid L-glutamic acid, the fatty acid lauric acid, and a short chain of ethylene oxide units. The fatty portion comes most often from coconut or palm kernel oil, while the glutamic acid can be sourced from sugar beet or other plant sugars via fermentation. Chemists first react glutamic acid with lauric acid to form lauroyl glutamate, then attach an average of five ethylene oxide units to improve water compatibility. Finally the molecule is capped with two branched C20 alcohols (2-octyldodecanol) that give the ingredient its silky, cushiony feel.
This type of amino acid–based surfactant appeared in the late 1990s as formulators started looking for milder alternatives to traditional sulfates. Because it balances oil-loving and water-loving sections so well, it soon found a place in premium Japanese hair care and later spread to global skin care lines.
Today you can spot Dioctyldodeceth-5 Lauroyl Glutamate in rinse-off cleansers, shampoos, conditioners, leave-in treatments, facial moisturizers, makeup removers, sunscreens and even some sheet masks where a light, non-greasy finish is desired.
Dioctyldodeceth-5 Lauroyl Glutamate’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses
Formulators choose this multitasker because it improves both how a product feels and how it performs.
- Hair conditioning – Deposits a thin, flexible film on strands that reduces friction, boosts softness and makes detangling easier without weighing hair down
- Skin conditioning – Leaves a smooth, hydrated after-feel on the skin which can enhance suppleness and reduce the tight sensation often caused by cleansing
- Emollient – Adds slip and spreadability to creams or serums so they glide effortlessly while helping to reinforce the skin’s lipid barrier for a softer touch
Who Can Use Dioctyldodeceth-5 Lauroyl Glutamate
This ingredient is gentle enough for nearly all skin types, including sensitive, dry, oily and combination. Its lightweight emollient film helps keep dry skin comfortable while avoiding the heavy residue that can bother oily or acne-prone complexions. People with extremely compromised or allergy-prone skin should still proceed with caution, as with any new cosmetic ingredient, because individual sensitivities can never be ruled out completely.
Dioctyldodeceth-5 Lauroyl Glutamate is made from plant-derived sources such as coconut or palm kernel oil and fermented sugars, so it is generally suitable for vegans and vegetarians. Those following a strict animal-free lifestyle may wish to confirm the supply chain practices of the specific brand to be sure no animal derivatives are introduced during manufacturing.
No published data indicate a risk for pregnant or breastfeeding women when the ingredient is used in rinse-off or leave-on cosmetics at typical concentrations. This is not medical advice, and anyone who is expecting or nursing should review all personal care products with a qualified healthcare provider to stay on the safe side.
The molecule does not make skin more sensitive to sunlight, so there is no added risk of photosensitivity. Normal daily sun protection habits are still recommended because UV rays remain the primary cause of premature skin aging.
Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions
Reactions to topical Dioctyldodeceth-5 Lauroyl Glutamate can vary from person to person. The points below outline possible side effects, though they are unlikely for the average user when the ingredient is correctly formulated and used in normal amounts.
- Mild skin irritation – transient stinging or warmth, usually in very sensitive or broken skin
- Allergic contact dermatitis – rare itchy rash in individuals specifically allergic to glutamate or lauric derivatives
- Eye irritation – temporary tearing or redness if a high-foam cleanser splashes directly into the eyes
- Product build-up on hair – slight limpness or dullness if heavily layered without proper rinsing, more common on fine hair types
- Clogged pores – uncommon but possible in users extremely prone to comedones when the ingredient appears high on the label of a leave-on formula
If you notice any of these issues stop using the product and consult a healthcare professional or dermatologist for guidance.
Comedogenic Rating
Rating: 1 / 5 (very low likelihood of clogging pores)
Dioctyldodeceth-5 Lauroyl Glutamate leaves only a light, breathable film and contains water-compatible segments that keep it from building up inside follicles. The bulky branched alcohol tails make it less likely to pack tightly and create blockages. No published data link it to increased comedone formation at typical use levels.
Generally suitable for acne-prone or breakout-prone skin.
The finished product formula still matters, so users highly sensitive to pore congestion should also look at the other ingredients on the label.
Summary
Dioctyldodeceth-5 Lauroyl Glutamate conditions hair, conditions skin and acts as a light emollient. The lauroyl segment softens, the glutamate head attracts water and the short ethoxylated chain improves spreadability and rinse-off. Branched C20 alcohol ends add silky slip that helps reduce friction on both skin and strands.
Once niche in Japanese hair care, it is quietly gaining traction worldwide thanks to its gentle profile and luxe touch, though it is still far from a mainstream buzzword.
Current safety reviews show it is well tolerated with minimal risk when used in cosmetics. Still, patch test any new product containing this ingredient to be sure it suits your individual skin needs.