What Is Dipentaerythrityl Hexahydroxystearate/Hexastearate/Hexarosinate?
Dipentaerythrityl Hexahydroxystearate/Hexastearate/Hexarosinate is a plant-derived ester created by reacting stearic acid obtained from natural fats and oils, rosin from pine trees, and a pentaerythritol dimer. The outcome is a hexaester, meaning six fatty acid chains are attached to a single alcohol backbone, giving the ingredient a rich buttery texture that works well in many skincare formulas.
The cosmetic industry first explored this material in the 1990s while searching for vegetable-based alternatives to mineral oils and silicones. Its ability to thicken products and leave skin feeling soft made it an attractive option. Today manufacturers produce it by esterifying purified 6-hydroxystearic acid and stearic acid with dipentaerythritol, followed by blending with rosin acids to fine-tune consistency. The final substance is filtered, cooled, and milled into bead or flake form for easy handling during product manufacturing.
You will most often see Dipentaerythrityl Hexahydroxystearate/Hexastearate/Hexarosinate in moisturizers, night creams, anti-aging serums, cleansing balms, lipsticks, pressed powders, face masks, and sunscreens where it helps create a smooth spreadable texture.
Dipentaerythrityl Hexahydroxystearate/Hexastearate/Hexarosinate’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses
In formulas this multifunctional ester brings two main perks
- Skin conditioning – It forms a light breathable film that locks in moisture and leaves skin feeling velvety, which can enhance softness and reduce the appearance of dry flaky spots
- Viscosity controlling – Its wax-like consistency thickens emulsions and oil phases helping creams balms and makeup sticks hold their shape while still spreading smoothly on the skin
This ingredient is generally well tolerated by dry, normal and combination skin because its fatty structure helps seal in moisture without feeling greasy. People with very oily or acne prone skin may find it a bit rich so lightweight application or spot use is best if congestion is a concern.
Because the raw materials come from pine trees and vegetable fats the compound can be sourced to meet vegan and vegetarian standards. Brands that certify their supply chain as plant based and cruelty free will usually state this on the label.
No research links this ester to hormonal activity so it is considered low risk for those who are pregnant or breastfeeding. That said this is not medical advice and anyone expecting or nursing should ask a healthcare professional before adding new products to their routine.
The ingredient does not increase sensitivity to sunlight so there is no special need for extra sun protection beyond everyday SPF habits.
Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions
Reactions to topical Dipentaerythrityl Hexahydroxystearate/Hexastearate/Hexarosinate differ from person to person. The points below highlight possible issues but most users will not experience them when the ingredient is used correctly in a finished product.
- Mild redness or stinging, usually short lived
- Allergic contact dermatitis in individuals sensitive to pine rosin derivatives
- Clogged pores or breakouts in very oily skin types if used in high amounts
- Rare swelling or itching around the application site
If any unwanted reaction occurs stop using the product and seek medical guidance if symptoms persist or worsen.
Comedogenic Rating
Rating: 2/5
Dipentaerythrityl Hexahydroxystearate/Hexastearate/Hexarosinate is a large branched ester that sits mainly on the surface of skin rather than penetrating deeply which lowers its pore clogging potential. Still, its base acids include stearic acid and rosin acids that can contribute to buildup when used in very rich formulas. The overall balance places it in the low to moderate range.
Most people prone to acne can use products containing this ester in modest amounts, but ultra occlusive balms or heavy creams with high percentages might feel too thick for very oily complexions.
Formulation style matters: lightweight emulsions with less than about 5 % of the ingredient are far less likely to cause congestion than solid cleansing balms or stick foundations where the level can exceed 15 %.
Summary
Dipentaerythrityl Hexahydroxystearate/Hexastearate/Hexarosinate works as a skin conditioner and viscosity controller. Its six fatty acid chains create a silky film that traps water on the surface which smooths rough patches. At the same time the waxy structure thickens oil phases so creams, balms and makeup sticks keep their body yet still glide easily on skin.
The ester is moderately popular, appearing regularly in mid to high end moisturizers, cleansing balms and color cosmetics, but it is not as common as classic thickeners like cetyl alcohol or synthetic waxes.
Current safety data show a very low risk of irritation or systemic effects. When trying any new product it is still smart to perform a small patch test to rule out individual sensitivity especially if you have known allergies to pine derivatives.