What Is Dipentaerythrityl Hexamercaptopropionate?
Dipentaerythrityl Hexamercaptopropionate, often shortened to DPTHMP, is a synthetic ingredient created in a lab from dipentaerythritol and mercaptopropionic acid. Chemists link these two starting materials in a way that forms a multi-armed molecule with several sulfur groups, which is what gives the ingredient many of its useful traits. It first appeared in industrial coatings where strong, flexible bonds are important, then formulators noticed the same traits could help hold cosmetic products together, so it made the jump into beauty labs in the early 2000s.
The production process starts with dipentaerythritol, a sugar-based alcohol. This substance reacts with six units of mercaptopropionic acid in the presence of heat and a catalyst. The result is a thick, colorless liquid that blends well with oils and resins. After purification, it is ready for use in personal care products.
You will most often see Dipentaerythrityl Hexamercaptopropionate in nail polishes, long-wear makeup, peel-off masks, hair styling gels, wrinkle-smoothing primers and certain waterproof sunscreens. In each of these, its job is to help all the other ingredients hold together so the formula stays smooth, stable and effective.
Dipentaerythrityl Hexamercaptopropionate’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses
This ingredient is prized by formulators because it acts as a binding agent. By locking different ingredients together, it prevents separation, improves product texture and helps create a flexible film on the skin or hair. The result is makeup that lasts longer, masks that peel off in one piece and gels that keep their hold without flaking.
Who Can Use Dipentaerythrityl Hexamercaptopropionate
Dipentaerythrityl Hexamercaptopropionate is generally considered suitable for all skin types, including oily, dry, normal and combination. Sensitive skin can usually tolerate it as well because the molecule is large and tends to remain on the surface rather than penetrating deeply. That said, formulas containing very high levels of the ingredient can feel slightly occlusive on extremely oily or acne-prone skin so those users may prefer lighter products.
The ingredient is synthesized entirely from non-animal sources which makes it appropriate for vegans and vegetarians. No animal by-products are used in its manufacture or purification.
Current safety data indicate no specific risks for pregnant or breastfeeding women when the ingredient is applied topically and used as directed. Absorption through intact skin is minimal. This is not medical advice; anyone who is pregnant or nursing should review all personal care products with a qualified healthcare professional before use, just to be safe.
Dipentaerythrityl Hexamercaptopropionate does not cause photosensitivity, so it will not make skin more vulnerable to sunburn. It is also fragrance free and nonreactive with common sunscreen filters, making it easy to pair with daytime skincare.
Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions
Side effects from topical use of Dipentaerythrityl Hexamercaptopropionate can vary from person to person. The points below list potential reactions; most users will not experience these when the ingredient is used at the levels typically found in cosmetics.
- Mild skin irritation – occasional redness or itching, most often in people with very sensitive skin
- Contact dermatitis – rare allergic response in individuals sensitive to sulfur-containing compounds
- Eye irritation – stinging or watering if the product accidentally gets into the eyes
- Mechanical irritation – tugging or redness if a strongly adhering film is removed too aggressively
If any of these reactions occur discontinue use and consult a healthcare professional if symptoms persist or worsen.
Comedogenic Rating
Rating: 1 / 5
Dipentaerythrityl Hexamercaptopropionate is a large, branched molecule that does not sink deeply into pores and it is not an oil with long fatty chains that can feed acne bacteria. It mainly sits on the surface to bind ingredients together, so the chance of it clogging pores is very low. Products using very high levels of the ingredient can feel slightly heavy which is why it earns a 1 rather than a 0.
Overall it is considered suitable for people prone to breakouts.
Keep in mind that a finished product’s pore-clogging potential also depends on the other ingredients in the formula. If those include thick waxes or heavy emollients, the product could still trigger congestion even though Dipentaerythrityl Hexamercaptopropionate itself is low risk.
Summary
Dipentaerythrityl Hexamercaptopropionate is mainly used as a binding agent that locks diverse ingredients together, stabilises formulas and forms a flexible film on skin hair or nails. It achieves this by leveraging its multi-arm structure rich in sulfur groups, which lets it grip onto resins pigments and polymers so products stay uniform and long wearing.
The ingredient enjoys moderate popularity. It shows up in niche categories like peel-off masks and long-wear nail polish but it is far from a household name mainly because cheaper binders work fine for everyday lotions and creams.
Current research deems it safe for topical use with a low risk of irritation or pore clogging. As with any new cosmetic, it is wise to patch test a product that contains Dipentaerythrityl Hexamercaptopropionate before using it all over, just to be cautious.