What Is Dipentaerythrityl Tetrabehenate/Polyhydroxystearate?
Dipentaerythrityl Tetrabehenate/Polyhydroxystearate is a specialty ester created by joining dipentaerythritol, behenic acid and polyhydroxystearic acid. The behenic portion is commonly sourced from plant oils such as rapeseed while polyhydroxystearic acid often traces back to castor oil. Dipentaerythritol itself is made from simple sugars through a well-established chemical process. When these raw materials are heated together in the presence of a catalyst they form a smooth wax-like substance that is neither completely oil nor completely wax, giving formulators a versatile texture tool.
The ingredient first appeared in cosmetic labs in the early 2000s as brands searched for richer, silicone-free emollients that could lock in moisture without feeling greasy. Its strong binding ability and buttery finish quickly made it popular in modern skincare and makeup lines.
Today you will spot Dipentaerythrityl Tetrabehenate/Polyhydroxystearate in moisturizers, nourishing face creams, anti-aging serums, lip balms, foundations, solid cleansing sticks, masks and high SPF sunscreens where it helps thicken the base, trap water on the skin and leave a soft cushiony feel.
Dipentaerythrityl Tetrabehenate/Polyhydroxystearate’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses
This multitasking ester brings several helpful properties to a formula
- Humectant: attracts and holds water from the environment so products feel hydrating and skin stays comfortably moisturized through the day
- Skin conditioning: forms a lightweight film that smooths rough patches, improves slip and leaves a velvety finish which can enhance the overall sensory experience of creams and color products
Who Can Use Dipentaerythrityl Tetrabehenate/Polyhydroxystearate
This ester is generally well tolerated by most skin types. Its humectant and cushioning qualities make it a welcome addition for normal, dry and mature skin that crave extra moisture. Oily or acne-prone skin can usually handle it too since the texture is lighter than many plant butters, though very blemish-prone users may prefer to use it sparingly within leave-on formulas.
The raw materials come from plant sources such as rapeseed and castor oil and no animal derivatives are involved in the manufacturing process, so products using this ingredient are suitable for vegans and vegetarians.
No data links Dipentaerythrityl Tetrabehenate/Polyhydroxystearate to hormonal disruption or fetal risk. Pregnant or breastfeeding individuals can generally use cosmetics containing it, yet this is not medical advice and anyone expecting or nursing should check with a healthcare professional before starting new skincare.
The molecule is considered non-photosensitizing, meaning it does not make skin more sensitive to sunlight. As always daily sunscreen is still recommended for overall skin health.
Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions
Reactions to topical Dipentaerythrityl Tetrabehenate/Polyhydroxystearate differ from person to person. The points below outline potential, though uncommon, side effects when the ingredient is used as intended by a reputable manufacturer
- Mild redness or stinging in very sensitive skin
- Temporary congestion or the feeling of heaviness in individuals prone to clogged pores
- Allergic contact dermatitis if a true sensitivity to the molecule develops
- Folliculitis on areas where thick layers are applied under occlusive clothing or bandages
If any irritation or unexpected reaction appears discontinue use and seek guidance from a qualified healthcare provider.
Comedogenic Rating
Rating: 1/5. Dipentaerythrityl Tetrabehenate/Polyhydroxystearate is a large ester molecule that tends to sit on the surface rather than slip into pores. It adds a light occlusive layer but its wax-like structure is less oily than straight plant butters, so the risk of pore blockage is low for most users. Those who break out easily can usually tolerate it, especially when the ingredient is present at modest levels in a well-balanced formula. As with any fatty ester, very heavy or layered applications may raise the chance of congestion on extremely reactive skin.
Summary
Dipentaerythrityl Tetrabehenate/Polyhydroxystearate mainly acts as a humectant and skin-conditioning agent. It draws water toward the skin then locks that moisture in with a soft breathable film, leaving a smooth cushioned feel. Its buttery yet lightweight texture also helps thicken emulsions and improves the glide of creams makeup and sunscreen sticks without relying on silicones.
While not a household name, this ester has gained steady traction with formulators looking for plant-derived alternatives that combine moisture retention with a pleasant non-greasy finish. You will see it more often in modern moisturizers lip balms and high SPF products.
Safety profiles from supplier and independent testing show a low irritation potential and no links to serious health concerns. Still everyone’s skin is unique so it is wise to patch test any new product containing this ingredient before committing it to your daily routine.