Dipeptide-20 Hexapeptide-40 Oligopeptide-93 Rh-Polypeptide-68 Tetrapeptide-35: What Is It, Cosmetic Uses, Benefits & Side Effects

Curious about this ingredient? In this article we're explaining exactly what it is and why it's used within cosmetic formulations.
Updated on: June 27, 2025
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We verify all information on this page using publicly available nomenclature standards from The Personal Care Products Council (PCPC), the European Commission's CosIng database and documentation provided directly by ingredient manufacturers. Our analysis is based on technical data from these sources to ensure accuracy and reliability.

What Is Dipeptide-20 Hexapeptide-40 Oligopeptide-93 Rh-Polypeptide-68 Tetrapeptide-35?

Dipeptide-20 Hexapeptide-40 Oligopeptide-93 Rh-Polypeptide-68 Tetrapeptide-35 is a lab made fusion peptide that strings together 550 amino acids in a single chain. Scientists design its gene on a computer, then ask a harmless strain of E. coli to “grow” the peptide through a controlled fermentation process. Once the bacteria finish their work the peptide is separated, purified and turned into a fine powder ready for cosmetic use.

The idea of blending several smaller peptides into one larger sequence came from the search for multi tasking ingredients that could fight oxidation, smooth skin and care for hair at the same time. As peptide research moved into mainstream skin care in the early 2000s, formulators began experimenting with longer custom chains, eventually leading to this five part fusion.

Production starts with synthetic DNA that combines the original genes for Dipeptide-20, Hexapeptide-40, Oligopeptide-93, rh-Polypeptide-68 and Tetrapeptide-35. The DNA is inserted into E. coli, which is then grown in stainless steel tanks. After fermentation the mixture is filtered, the peptide is isolated, then gently dried to keep its structure intact. Quality checks confirm purity and ensure the amino acid sequence is correct before the ingredient ships to manufacturers.

You will most often spot this peptide in high performance anti aging serums, firming creams, hydrating sheet masks, leave in hair conditioners, scalp tonics and overnight treatments where brands want a single ingredient that can care for both skin and hair.

Dipeptide-20 Hexapeptide-40 Oligopeptide-93 Rh-Polypeptide-68 Tetrapeptide-35’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses

In topical products this fusion peptide lends several useful properties

  • Antioxidant: helps neutralize free radicals on the skin surface, supports the stability of the formula and can reduce the look of early aging linked to environmental stress
  • Hair conditioning: coats the hair shaft to smooth rough spots, improve combability and leave strands feeling softer with a healthy looking shine
  • Skin conditioning: attracts and holds water near the skin, boosts a supple feel and may soften the appearance of fine lines for a plumper look

Who Can Use Dipeptide-20 Hexapeptide-40 Oligopeptide-93 Rh-Polypeptide-68 Tetrapeptide-35

This large fusion peptide is generally well tolerated on normal, dry, oily and combination skin. It is also mild enough for most sensitive or mature skin because it is non acidic and fragrance free. People dealing with very reactive skin conditions such as active eczema or open lesions may still prefer to wait until the skin barrier is calm before introducing any new actives, simply to avoid extra variables.

The ingredient is produced through microbial fermentation with no animal sourced raw materials so it is suitable for both vegans and vegetarians.

Current data shows little to no systemic absorption when the peptide is used in topical products which suggests it poses minimal risk to pregnant or breastfeeding women. This is not medical advice and anyone who is expecting or nursing should share their full skin care routine with a qualified healthcare professional before use to be certain it aligns with their unique circumstances.

Dipeptide-20 Hexapeptide-40 Oligopeptide-93 Rh-Polypeptide-68 Tetrapeptide-35 does not make skin more sensitive to sunlight so it is not considered a photosensitizer. Daily sunscreen is still advised for overall skin health but the peptide itself does not raise UV vulnerability.

Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions

Responses to topical Dipeptide-20 Hexapeptide-40 Oligopeptide-93 Rh-Polypeptide-68 Tetrapeptide-35 vary from person to person. The points below list potential issues that could occur although they are uncommon when the ingredient is properly formulated and used as directed.

  • Mild redness or warmth shortly after application
  • Temporary itching or tingling as the product settles
  • Localized rash in individuals with a specific peptide allergy
  • Eye irritation if the formula accidentally gets into the eyes
  • Interaction with leave-on products that contain very high amounts of alcohol which can destabilize the peptide and heighten stinging sensation

If any of these reactions appear and persist stop using the product and consult a healthcare professional for advice.

Comedogenic Rating

Rating: 0 / 5

This fusion peptide is water soluble, has a very large molecular size and contains no fatty acids or waxes that could lodge inside pores. Because it stays on the skin surface and rinses away easily it has virtually no pore-clogging potential. Most acne-prone users can apply it without worrying about new breakouts. If the final product blends the peptide into a heavier oil base the comedogenic risk will depend on those carrier oils, not the peptide itself.

Summary

Dipeptide-20 Hexapeptide-40 Oligopeptide-93 rh-Polypeptide-68 Tetrapeptide-35 works as an antioxidant, a skin conditioner and a hair conditioner. Specific amino acids in its 550-unit chain donate electrons to neutralize free radicals, while the peptide’s ability to bind water boosts surface hydration and creates a light film that smooths both skin and hair.

The ingredient is still a niche pick seen mainly in high-end serums, sheet masks and leave-in conditioners, though its multitasking appeal is helping it gain slow but steady traction with formulators.

Safety data show low irritation rates, no evidence of systemic absorption and zero comedogenicity, yet everyone’s skin is different so it is smart to patch test any new product that features this peptide before full-face use.

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