What Is Distearyl Lauroyl Glutamate?
Distearyl Lauroyl Glutamate is a plant-derived ingredient made by joining glutamic acid, a naturally occurring amino acid, with lauric acid from coconut or palm kernel oil and stearyl alcohol from vegetable fats. The result is a waxy ester that blends the skin-friendly nature of amino acids with the softening qualities of long-chain fatty alcohols. Originally developed in the 1990s as a gentler alternative to animal-based conditioning agents, it gained popularity as brands began seeking biodegradable and vegan-aligned raw materials.
Manufacturing starts with fermenting glucose to obtain L-glutamic acid. This amino acid is then reacted with lauroyl chloride to form lauroyl glutamate. Finally, two stearyl alcohol molecules are esterified to the glutamate backbone, giving the finished ingredient its “distearyl” name. The process yields a mild, oil-loving compound that disperses easily in both water-in-oil and oil-in-water emulsions.
You will most often spot Distearyl Lauroyl Glutamate in creamy hair masks, leave-in conditioners, sulfate-free shampoos, body lotions, rich facial moisturizers, solid cleansing bars and color-cosmetic primers where a smooth, cushiony feel is desired.
Distearyl Lauroyl Glutamate’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses
Formulators turn to this multifunctional ester for two main reasons
- Hair conditioning: It coats the hair shaft with a lightweight layer that reduces friction, boosts slip and helps tame static leaving strands softer and easier to detangle
- Emollient: On skin it fills in tiny surface gaps to create a velvety finish, improves spreadability of the formula and slows water loss for a more hydrated comfortable feel
Who Can Use Distearyl Lauroyl Glutamate
This ingredient is gentle enough for dry, normal and combination skin and is usually well tolerated by sensitive skin since it lacks harsh surfactants or fragrances. Oily or very acne-prone skin can still use it because its lightweight film is unlikely to clog pores, though those who react badly to any fatty alcohols might prefer a patch test first.
Distearyl Lauroyl Glutamate is made from plant sourced glutamic acid, lauric acid and stearyl alcohol so it aligns with vegan and vegetarian preferences when the finished product is certified cruelty free.
No research points to issues for pregnant or breastfeeding women when the ingredient is used topically and in normal cosmetic amounts. This text is not medical advice so anyone who is expecting or nursing should have a quick word with their healthcare provider before adding new products.
The molecule does not make skin more sensitive to sunlight and has no known contraindications with common actives like retinoids or acids.
Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions
Reactions to topical Distearyl Lauroyl Glutamate differ from person to person. The points below cover potential issues even though most users will experience none if the product is properly formulated
- Mild redness or stinging on very sensitive skin
- Rare allergic contact dermatitis in individuals intolerant to fatty alcohol derivatives
- Transient scalp buildup if used in heavy leave-in hair products without adequate rinsing
If any irritation develops discontinue use and seek advice from a healthcare professional
Comedogenic Rating
Rating: 1/5
Distearyl Lauroyl Glutamate is made of bulky fatty chains joined to an amino acid backbone which keeps the molecule too large to sink deeply into pores. It forms a thin breathable film that rinses away easily so the risk of pore clogging is low. Suitable for people prone to acne or breakouts in most formulations unless combined with heavier occlusive oils.
As with most conditioning esters final comedogenicity depends on the entire formula. Very rich balms or butters that include waxes or butyl stearate may raise the overall clogging potential even if this single ingredient is mild.
Summary
Distearyl Lauroyl Glutamate works as a hair conditioner and skin emollient by wrapping strands or skin in a silky layer that smooths rough spots reduces friction and slows water loss. Its plant derived origin and biodegradable profile have made it a go to option for clean beauty brands although it is still less common than classic silicones or quats.
Current safety data shows it is low irritation and non sensitising for most users when used at typical cosmetic levels. Every skin is unique so it is smart to patch test any new product that contains it before full use.