What Is Dodecanedioic Acid/Cetearyl Alcohol/Glycol Copolymer?
Dodecanedioic Acid/Cetearyl Alcohol/Glycol Copolymer is a man-made polymer created by linking three building blocks: dodecanedioic acid, a long-chain dicarboxylic acid often sourced from plant oils or produced through controlled fermentation of natural feedstocks; cetearyl alcohol, a mix of cetyl and stearyl alcohols derived from coconut or palm oil; and glycol, usually petroleum- or plant-derived ethylene glycol. These components are combined through step-growth condensation, a process that removes small molecules like water to bond the ingredients into a larger network. The resulting copolymer balances the waxy feel of fatty alcohols with the flexibility of glycol segments and the durability of dodecanedioic acid.
Copolymers like this began gaining traction in the late 1990s when formulators looked for greener, multifunctional alternatives to traditional synthetic thickeners. By pairing familiar cosmetic staples such as cetearyl alcohol with advanced polymer chemistry, suppliers created ingredients that could boost texture and wear without heavy silicones or high levels of wax.
Today the copolymer shows up in a wide range of leave-on and rinse-off products. You will find it in facial moisturizers, body lotions, sunscreens, hair styling creams and masks, color cosmetics like mascara and foundations, and specialty treatments that require a flexible yet lasting film on skin or hair.
Dodecanedioic Acid/Cetearyl Alcohol/Glycol Copolymer’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses
Formulators choose this ingredient for two main reasons:
- Film forming – It lays down a thin breathable layer that helps lock in moisture, smooth uneven texture, enhance pigment payoff in makeup and improve the water resistance of sunscreens or hair products
- Viscosity controlling – It thickens and stabilizes emulsions, giving creams a rich cushiony feel, preventing phase separation and keeping suspended particles like mineral UV filters or colorants evenly dispersed
Who Can Use Dodecanedioic Acid/Cetearyl Alcohol/Glycol Copolymer
This copolymer suits most skin types because it forms a lightweight breathable film that rarely feels greasy or overly occlusive. Dry and normal skin enjoy its moisture-locking ability while combination and oily skin generally tolerate it since it does not add excess oil. Those with very sensitive or eczema-prone skin usually find it mild but a small number could react to any new polymer so vigilance is wise.
The building blocks come from plant or petroleum feedstocks and contain no animal-derived components so the ingredient can fit vegan and vegetarian preferences provided the finished brand confirms cruelty-free sourcing.
No data links the polymer to reproductive harm and it is not known to absorb deeply so products containing it are typically viewed as safe for use during pregnancy or breastfeeding. This is not medical advice and anyone who is pregnant or nursing should show the full ingredient list of any product to a healthcare professional first to be extra safe.
The polymer does not make skin more sensitive to sunlight and actually helps stabilize UV filters so it poses no photosensitivity concerns.
Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions
Reactions to topical Dodecanedioic Acid/Cetearyl Alcohol/Glycol Copolymer differ from person to person. The following list covers potential side effects that are unlikely for most users when the ingredient is formulated correctly.
- Mild redness or itching from contact irritation
- Allergic dermatitis in individuals sensitive to the polymer or trace impurities
- Temporary clogged pores or folliculitis on very acne-prone skin when used in high-film products
- Eye stinging if the product accidentally migrates into the eyes
- Product buildup or coated feel on hair with frequent use of leave-on styling formulas
If any discomfort or irritation occurs stop using the product and consult a medical professional
Comedogenic Rating
Rating: 1/5
The base materials include fatty alcohol segments that on their own can sit at 2 or 3 on the comedogenic scale, but once they are locked into a large polymer their ability to wedge into pores drops sharply. The film it forms is thin and breathable so it rarely traps sweat or sebum long enough to trigger breakouts.
This low score means the ingredient is generally suitable for acne-prone or congested skin, though individual results can vary.
Keep in mind that a formula’s entire blend of oils, waxes and actives ultimately determines how pore friendly the finished product is, not any single ingredient in isolation.
Summary
Dodecanedioic Acid/Cetearyl Alcohol/Glycol Copolymer mainly shines as a film former and viscosity controller. Its long acid chains give strength, the fatty alcohol portions add a silky cushion and the glycol linkers create flexibility, working together to thicken creams, stabilize emulsions, boost spread and leave a soft protective layer on skin or hair.
The polymer is moderately popular: you will spot it in many mid to premium moisturizers, sunscreens and styling creams but it is not yet a household name like hyaluronic acid.
Current safety data show a low risk of irritation, no evidence of hormonal disruption and almost no chance of systemic absorption. Still, everyone’s skin is unique so it is wise to patch test any new product that lists this copolymer before full use.