Dolichos Unguiculata Seed Extract: What Is It, Cosmetic Uses, Benefits & Side Effects

Curious about this ingredient? In this article we're explaining exactly what it is and why it's used within cosmetic formulations.
Updated on: June 27, 2025
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We verify all information on this page using publicly available nomenclature standards from The Personal Care Products Council (PCPC), the European Commission's CosIng database and documentation provided directly by ingredient manufacturers. Our analysis is based on technical data from these sources to ensure accuracy and reliability.

What Is Dolichos Unguiculata Seed Extract?

Dolichos Unguiculata Seed Extract comes from the seeds of Dolichos unguiculata, a legume also known as cowpea or yardlong bean. The seeds are rich in proteins, sugars and small amounts of natural oils, all of which can be useful for skin care. People in Africa and Asia have grown the plant for food for centuries, and its soothing reputation on the skin led to traditional applications like poultices for minor irritations. Modern cosmetics picked up on these folk uses in the late twentieth century, when brands began looking for plant extracts that could soften and smooth the skin without feeling greasy.

To make the extract, harvested seeds are cleaned, dried and ground into a fine meal. The meal is soaked in a water or water-and-glycerin mix to draw out the beneficial compounds, then filtered to remove solids. The liquid is concentrated and preserved so it stays stable in creams, serums and masks.

You will often see Dolichos Unguiculata Seed Extract in moisturizing creams, anti-aging serums, sheet masks and leave-on treatments that aim to boost skin softness and suppleness. It pairs well with hydrating ingredients like hyaluronic acid and works in both everyday moisturizers and richer night products.

Dolichos Unguiculata Seed Extract’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses

This plant extract serves one key purpose in skin care products.

As a skin conditioning agent it helps skin feel smoother, softer and more comfortable. The natural proteins and sugars form a light film on the surface that reduces water loss, supports the skin’s barrier and leaves a silky afterfeel. Regular use can improve overall texture, making the complexion look healthier and more refreshed.

Who Can Use Dolichos Unguiculata Seed Extract

Thanks to its gentle nature this extract suits nearly all skin types, including dry, oily and combination complexions. Sensitive skin usually tolerates it well because it is low in fragrance and free of common irritants. Extremely reactive or allergy-prone individuals should still check the full ingredient list of the finished product in case other additives pose a problem.

The extract is plant derived so it is acceptable for both vegans and vegetarians. No animal-based raw materials or by-products are involved in its production.

Current research has not flagged any specific concerns for women who are pregnant or breastfeeding when the extract is applied topically in cosmetic amounts. This is not medical advice and anyone expecting or nursing should clear any skincare routine with a healthcare professional to be safe.

Dolichos Unguiculata Seed Extract does not increase photosensitivity. Normal sun protection practices are still recommended because UV damage can come from many sources, not just cosmetic ingredients.

Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions

Responses to topical Dolichos Unguiculata Seed Extract vary from person to person. The following points outline potential side effects, but most users experience none when the ingredient is formulated and used correctly.

  • Mild redness or stinging
  • Itching or dryness if skin is already compromised
  • Allergic contact dermatitis in people sensitive to legumes or seed proteins
  • Swelling or hives in rare cases of severe allergy

If any unwanted reaction occurs discontinue use and seek medical advice.

Comedogenic Rating

Rating: 1 / 5

Dolichos Unguiculata Seed Extract is mostly made up of water-soluble proteins and sugars with only trace lipids, so it does not clog pores the way heavier plant oils can. Lab and user reports rarely link it to whiteheads or blackheads, earning it a very low score of 1 rather than a perfect 0 simply because any film-forming ingredient could in theory trap debris if skin is not cleansed properly.

This low rating means the extract is generally fine for acne-prone or breakout-prone skin.

Formulators usually pair it with lightweight bases, which helps keep finished products breathable and suitable for oily complexions.

Summary

Dolichos Unguiculata Seed Extract acts primarily as a skin conditioner. Its natural proteins and sugars form a light, invisible film that slows water loss, softens rough spots and leaves skin feeling smooth. By supporting the moisture barrier it can make the complexion look fresher and more even.

The ingredient is still a bit of a hidden gem; it appears in select moisturizers, masks and serums but has not reached the mainstream popularity of aloe or hyaluronic acid. Brands looking for gentle plant actives value its mildness and vegan origin.

Overall safety is high. Adverse reactions are rare and usually mild, limited to individuals with legume sensitivities. As with any new skincare product a short patch test is sensible before full-face use.

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