Elaeagnus Macrophylla Leaf/Stem Oil: What Is It, Cosmetic Uses, Benefits & Side Effects

Curious about this ingredient? In this article we're explaining exactly what it is and why it's used within cosmetic formulations.
Updated on: June 27, 2025
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We verify all information on this page using publicly available nomenclature standards from The Personal Care Products Council (PCPC), the European Commission's CosIng database and documentation provided directly by ingredient manufacturers. Our analysis is based on technical data from these sources to ensure accuracy and reliability.

What Is Elaeagnus Macrophylla Leaf/Stem Oil?

Elaeagnus Macrophylla Leaf/Stem Oil is a fragrant plant oil extracted from the leaves and stems of Elaeagnus macrophylla, a hardy shrub native to East Asia that is known for its silvery foliage and small, sweet scented flowers. The oil contains a mix of lightweight fatty acids, natural waxes, and trace aromatic compounds that give it a soft herbal scent and quick-absorbing feel on the skin.

The plant has been used in folk beauty rituals across coastal Japan and Korea, where crushed leaves were once applied to dry or irritated skin. Modern cosmetic science took interest in the plant when researchers noted its blend of skin-cushioning lipids and moisture-binding molecules. Today the oil is produced by gently steam distilling freshly harvested leaves and stems, then separating the aromatic watery phase from the pale green oil layer. This low-heat method keeps its delicate components intact while removing unwanted plant debris.

Manufacturers add Elaeagnus Macrophylla Leaf/Stem Oil to lightweight moisturizers, overnight masks, soothing face mists, scalp serums, and a growing number of anti-aging creams where a non-greasy finish is desired.

Elaeagnus Macrophylla Leaf/Stem Oil’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses

Formulators value this botanical oil for its ability to soften skin while helping it hold on to water.

  • Emollient: Smooths rough patches, fills tiny surface gaps, and leaves skin feeling supple without a heavy film so it is ideal for day creams and hand lotions.
  • Humectant: Draws moisture from the air into the upper layers of the skin, supporting lasting hydration and a fresher look in leave-on products like serums and sheet masks.

Who Can Use Elaeagnus Macrophylla Leaf/Stem Oil

Thanks to its light texture and balanced fatty acid profile the oil suits most skin types, including normal, dry, combination, and even mildly oily skin that can handle lightweight plant oils. Very oily or severely acne prone skin may prefer gel based hydrators because any oil, even a thin one, can feel too rich for them. Its purely botanical origin makes it a natural fit for vegans and vegetarians since no animal derived matter or by-products are involved in its production. Pregnant or breastfeeding individuals are not known to face specific risks from topical use of this oil, but this is not medical advice and anyone expecting or nursing should run new skincare products past a qualified healthcare professional. The oil is not phototoxic so it will not increase sun sensitivity. It is also free of known hormone disruptors or follicle-blocking waxes which makes it gentle enough for use on scalp and body products.

Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions

Reactions to topical Elaeagnus Macrophylla Leaf/Stem Oil differ from person to person. The following are potential side effects, but they are uncommon when the ingredient is correctly formulated and used as intended.

  • Allergic contact dermatitis marked by itching or small red bumps
  • Mild transient stinging or warmth on very sensitive or compromised skin
  • Flare-up of fragrance sensitivity in users intolerant to aromatic plant compounds
  • Occasional pore congestion if the pure oil is layered heavily on acne prone areas

If any of these issues occur stop using the product and seek guidance from a healthcare professional.

Comedogenic Rating

Rating: 1/5 – The oil is thin, largely unsaturated, and contains very little residue-forming wax, so it rarely lingers long enough to block pores. Most people prone to breakouts can use it without issues, though slathering the raw oil on thickly could still overwhelm pores that are already congested. Keep in mind that the overall formula of a product and your personal skin condition influence clogging risk as much as the ingredient itself.

Summary

Elaeagnus Macrophylla Leaf/Stem Oil acts chiefly as an emollient that smooths rough patches and as a humectant that draws water into the skin. Its light fatty acids cushion the skin surface while its moisture-binding components help maintain a soft hydrated feel.

It is not yet a mainstream hero like argan or jojoba oil but formulators who want a fast-absorbing botanical option are starting to include it in modern moisturizers masks and scalp serums.

Topical use is considered low-risk with very few reports of irritation or sensitization. As with any new cosmetic ingredient it is smart to patch test a fresh product on a small area first just to be safe.

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