What Is Ethyl Linolenate?
Ethyl linolenate is an ester that links linolenic acid, a fatty acid found in many plant oils, with ethanol. Chemists first documented it as a discrete aroma material in the early 1930s while studying the volatile components of seed oils.
Today the compound is typically made by reacting refined linolenic acid, usually sourced from linseed or chia oil, with food grade ethanol under controlled heat and pressure. The result is then purified by distillation to remove by products and reach a fragrance grade standard. Because both feedstocks come from renewable crops it can be labeled of natural origin, yet the final step happens in a factory so it is sometimes also classed as nature identical.
At room temperature the material looks like a clear to slightly cloudy liquid that can appear almost solid if the storage area runs cool. Its color ranges from very pale straw to a deeper yellow depending on batch freshness. The liquid feels oily to the touch and flows easily thanks to a relatively low density.
Perfumers use ethyl linolenate more often in functional products than in luxury fine fragrances, though it certainly has a place in niche compositions. Volumes are moderate which keeps supply stable and the price sits comfortably in the lower-middle tier rather than at the costly end of the scale.
What Does Ethyl Linolenate Smell Like?
Ethyl linolenate is generally grouped within the green family.
On a blotter it opens with a quiet fatty nuance similar to raw vegetable oil. Within minutes a dry hay note pushes forward, evoking sun dried grass rather than fresh cut clippings. The overall effect feels natural, slightly warm and gently rustic, without any harsh sharpness.
In the classic fragrance pyramid top notes are what you notice first, middle notes form the heart, and base notes linger the longest. Ethyl linolenate sits mainly in the heart yet it has a foot in the base because of its oil-like weight. It rarely shines in the opening spray but starts to speak a few minutes in and stays detectable well after lighter materials have faded.
Projection is soft meaning it does not jump off the skin but creates an intimate aura. Longevity is moderate to good, often lasting four to six hours in a typical eau de toilette and even longer in richer bases.
How & Where To Use Ethyl Linolenate
First things first, ethyl linolenate is a pretty friendly material to handle. It pours cleanly, it does not flood the lab with fumes and it plays well with most common solvents. In short it is a nice addition to the organ and will not make you dread weigh-out day.
Perfumers reach for it when they need a soft, authentic green touch that feels more sun-dried than freshly cut. It slips into hay, tobacco or cereal accords with ease, rounding them and steering them away from sharpness. In a fougère or chypre heart it can bridge the gap between herbaceous top notes and woody bases, adding a gentle oily warmth that keeps the blend from feeling brittle.
At trace levels it is barely noticeable yet it fattens the overall body of a fragrance the way a drizzle of olive oil enriches a salad. Around 0.5-1 percent the hay facet comes into focus and adds rustic charm, while 2-3 percent lets the fatty aspect speak more clearly which can be great in a countryside or farmstead theme but may smother delicate florals. Anything higher than 4 percent risks turning the mix greasy so restraint is advised unless that effect is desired.
Formulators like it in soaps, shampoos and detergents where its green tone survives alkaline bases and hot processing. It also stands up to candle pour temperatures without scorching. The downside is water insolubility, so solubiliser or premix in a suitable carrier is essential for clear body washes and room sprays. It is less useful in bright citrus colognes or hyper clean laundry accords where its mellow warmth can feel out of place.
No special prep beyond the usual is needed: bring the bottle to room temperature so any crystals melt, give it a quick roll to homogenise then weigh. A stainless or glass spatula wipes clean easily. As with any fatty ester, keep an eye on shelf life and discard if rancid off-notes creep in.
Safely Information
Working with ethyl linolenate is straightforward yet basic precautions always apply.
- Dilution first: blend a small amount into a solvent such as ethanol or dipropylene glycol before evaluating the scent. This prevents overwhelming the nose and makes nuance easier to judge.
- No direct sniffing: avoid inhaling straight from the bottle. Waft the diluted strip toward your nose instead.
- Ventilation: open windows or switch on the lab hood so vapours disperse swiftly.
- Personal protective equipment: wear nitrile gloves and safety glasses to keep the material off skin and out of eyes.
- Health considerations: esters like this can trigger irritation or allergies in sensitive individuals. Brief low-level exposure is generally safe but prolonged or high-concentration contact should be avoided. Consult a doctor before use if pregnant or breastfeeding.
Always review the most recent MSDS supplied by your vendor and update your files whenever a new revision appears. Follow current IFRA guidelines for maximum use levels in your specific product category to ensure consumer safety and regulatory compliance.
Storage And Disposal
When handled with care ethyl linolenate stays in good shape for around two years past the manufacturing date. Some lots hold up even longer but best practice is to refresh stock every 24 months so the hay note stays crisp and the fatty part does not drift into rancid territory.
Cool and dark beats warm and bright every time. A shelf in a temperature-stable cupboard away from direct sunlight works well. Refrigeration is not compulsory yet sliding bottles into the fridge at 4-8 °C can easily add an extra season of freshness. If you do chill them allow the liquid to reach room temperature before opening so condensation does not sneak inside.
Oxygen is the main enemy. Use polycone caps on both neat material and dilutions because they seal tight and stop slow evaporation. Dropper tops look handy but their vent holes let air cycle in and out so skip them. Try to decant into the smallest bottle that will hold your remaining volume; a full container leaves little headspace and slows oxidation.
Label every bottle the moment you fill it. Write the INCI or common name, date, percentage if diluted and a brief hazard line such as “Skin Irritant Cat 2.” Clear labels save headaches later and keep visitors in the lab safe.
For disposal small lab quantities can usually go into an absorbent material like kitty litter then into solid chemical waste per local rules. Larger volumes should be handed to a licensed disposal company. Ethyl linolenate is readily biodegradable yet dumping it straight into drains at high concentration can overload water treatment systems and upset aquatic life so responsible disposal matters. Rinse empty bottles with warm soapy water before recycling the glass or HDPE.
Summary
Ethyl linolenate is a naturally sourced ester that brings a laid-back green signature to the perfumer’s palette. Think soft vegetable oil wrapped around sun dried hay.
It slips effortlessly into hay, tobacco, fougère and cereal accords and gives body to functional products that need to smell wholesome rather than flashy. Cost sits in the friendly middle ground and the material is stable enough for soaps, shampoos, candles and fine fragrance when stored well.
You do need to watch out for oxidation and the oily facet can overpower delicate florals if you push the dosage, but within its comfort zone it is a fun workhorse that rewards a light touch. Whether you are rounding out a countryside theme or just want to add a subtle rustic twist, this ester deserves a spot on the organ.