What Is Ethylene Bis-Hydroxystearamide?
Ethylene Bis-Hydroxystearamide is a wax-like compound created when ethylenediamine reacts with hydroxystearic acid, a fatty acid derivative. The reaction forms a diamide structure that behaves like a solid wax at room temperature yet melts smoothly at higher temperatures, making it useful for adjusting texture in cosmetic formulas. First developed in the plastics industry during the mid-20th century as a lubricant and thickener, it soon caught the attention of cosmetic chemists who needed a reliable way to give creams and makeup a richer, more stable feel.
Commercial production involves heating purified hydroxystearic acid with ethylenediamine under controlled conditions, allowing the two molecules to condense and release water. The resulting material is then cooled, milled and filtered to obtain a fine white powder or small flakes ready for blending into formulations.
You’ll most often find Ethylene Bis-Hydroxystearamide in products that need structure or body: moisturizers, night creams, sunscreens, lipsticks, deodorant sticks, balms, mascaras, hair pomades and solid cleansing bars. Because it thickens without feeling greasy, it is especially popular in lightweight lotions and modern water-based gels.
Ethylene Bis-Hydroxystearamide’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses
The main role of Ethylene Bis-Hydroxystearamide in personal care is viscosity control. By dispersing evenly through a formula it increases thickness, stabilizes emulsions and prevents ingredients from separating. This gives creams a smooth scoopable texture, keeps liquid makeup from settling in the bottle and helps solid sticks hold their shape in warm weather. It also enhances the sensory feel so products glide on evenly and leave a soft non-tacky finish.
Who Can Use Ethylene Bis-Hydroxystearamide
Ethylene Bis-Hydroxystearamide is considered gentle and non reactive so it can be used on dry, oily, combination and sensitive skin alike. Its waxy particles stay mostly on the surface and do not clog pores in most people which makes it a safe pick for acne prone users as well. Those with very reactive or allergy prone skin should still keep an eye on the full ingredient list because irritation is more often linked to other ingredients blended with it.
The compound is usually produced from plant based fatty acids so finished material is commonly suitable for vegans and vegetarians. If this point is important to you check with the brand or look for a certified vegan logo since some suppliers may still use animal derived feedstock.
No data suggest that Ethylene Bis-Hydroxystearamide is absorbed through the skin or interferes with pregnancy or lactation. Most experts view it as low risk for expectant or nursing mothers however this is not medical advice and anyone who is pregnant or breastfeeding should review all skincare choices with a qualified health professional.
The ingredient does not make skin more sensitive to sunlight and it has no known conflicts with sunscreen filters or other daily care staples.
Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions
Individual responses to Ethylene Bis-Hydroxystearamide can differ. The following list covers potential but uncommon side effects when the ingredient is applied to skin. In well formulated products most users experience none of these issues.
- Mild redness or itching in people with an existing amide allergy
- Contact dermatitis when used on broken or compromised skin
- Temporary clogged pores in very oil prone users if the rest of the formula is heavy
- Stinging sensation if the product gets into the eyes
If you develop persistent irritation or any other unwanted reaction stop using the product and seek advice from a doctor or dermatologist.
Comedogenic Rating
Rating: 1 out of 5 – Ethylene Bis-Hydroxystearamide forms a lightweight surface film that helps thicken products without sinking deep into pores so it rarely traps oil or debris. Occasional congestion can occur only when it is part of an overly rich formula, which is why it does not score a perfect zero. In most cases it is considered suitable for people who are prone to acne or breakouts. Because its molecules stay close to the skin surface and are easily removed with normal cleansing, the risk of persistent pore blockage is minimal. The ingredient is also typically used at low levels, further lowering comedogenic potential.
Summary
Ethylene Bis-Hydroxystearamide is mainly added to cosmetics as a viscosity controller that thickens, stabilizes and improves the feel of creams, lotions and solid sticks. Its waxy yet non greasy structure lets it solidify or gel the oil phase, giving products body while maintaining a smooth glide on skin or lips. Though not as famous as plant waxes like carnauba or candelilla it enjoys steady use behind the scenes in modern formulas that aim for a lightweight sensory profile.
Current safety data rate it as low risk for irritation, sensitization or systemic absorption, making it broadly safe for daily use. As with any new skincare ingredient doing a quick patch test when you first try a product is a smart precaution, especially if your skin is reactive.