What Is Ethylhexyl Ricinoleate?
Ethylhexyl ricinoleate is an ester derived from ricinoleic acid, the main fatty acid found in castor oil, and 2-ethylhexanol, a branched alcohol often used in cosmetic chemistry. The pairing of a plant-based fatty acid with an alcohol gives the ingredient a lightweight, oily texture that feels silky on skin without being overly greasy. First explored in the 1970s as chemists searched for castor oil alternatives that poured and spread more easily, it soon earned a place in cosmetic labs as a flexible emollient.
Manufacturing starts with pressing castor beans to obtain castor oil. Through a controlled reaction called esterification, ricinoleic acid is separated and combined with 2-ethylhexanol while heat and an acid catalyst speed things along. The result is a clear, odorless liquid that stays stable across a wide temperature range, making it handy for both cold-processed and hot-poured formulas.
Today you will spot ethylhexyl ricinoleate in a variety of leave-on products such as face and body moisturizers, soothing after-sun gels, lip balms, creamy color cosmetics, lightweight facial oils, anti-aging serums and certain sheet masks. It is also used to improve spreadability in water-resistant sunscreens and long-wear makeup, helping pigments glide smoothly over skin.
Ethylhexyl Ricinoleate’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses
Formulators value this ingredient for the comfortable finish it lends to many skin care and makeup products.
- Skin conditioning: Softens and smooths the skin surface, leaving it feeling supple while helping reduce the appearance of flaky or rough patches
- Emollient: Forms a light, breathable film that traps moisture, enhances slip and improves the spreadability of thicker creams and high-pigment products
Who Can Use Ethylhexyl Ricinoleate?
Thanks to its light, silky feel ethylhexyl ricinoleate works for most skin types including dry, normal, combination and mature skin. Oily or acne prone users usually tolerate it as well since it is less greasy than many oils, though those who clog easily may still want to keep an eye on how their skin responds.
The raw materials come from castor beans and a lab made alcohol so the finished ester contains no animal derivatives, making it suitable for vegans and vegetarians.
Available safety reviews report no specific risks for pregnant or breastfeeding women when the ingredient is used at cosmetic levels. This is not medical advice and anyone who is pregnant or nursing should clear new skincare items with a doctor to stay on the safe side.
Ethylhexyl ricinoleate does not make skin more sensitive to sunlight so it does not require special sun avoidance measures beyond daily sunscreen.
Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions
Side effects can vary from person to person and the issues listed below are uncommon when the ingredient is used correctly in finished products.
- Mild redness or irritation in very sensitive skin
- Temporary itching or stinging on freshly exfoliated or compromised skin
- Clogged pores or breakouts in acne prone individuals
- Allergic contact dermatitis in those with a castor oil allergy
If any of these reactions develop stop using the product and consult a healthcare professional.
Comedogenic Rating
Rating: 2 out of 5
Ethylhexyl ricinoleate is a lightweight ester that spreads easily and absorbs better than many plant oils, so it is less likely to clog pores. Still, its fatty acid backbone comes from castor oil which has a mild tendency to sit on the skin. For most people this translates to a low but not zero risk of congestion.
Suitable for acne-prone users who tolerate light emollients, though anyone with very reactive or severely oily skin may prefer a fully non-comedogenic option.
Formulation matters: high levels of waxes, heavy butters or certain pigments in the same product can raise the overall pore-clogging potential even if the ester itself is fairly low.
Summary
Ethylhexyl ricinoleate works mainly as an emollient and skin-conditioning agent. Its silky texture fills in tiny surface gaps, softens rough patches and leaves a thin breathable film that slows water loss, giving formulas a smooth glide without greasy heft. These traits make it a handy helper in moisturizers, sunscreens, lip balms and color cosmetics.
While not a headline ingredient like hyaluronic acid or vitamin C it enjoys steady, behind-the-scenes popularity among formulators who need a castor-oil-like feel that pours easily and stays stable across temperatures.
Safety reviews find it non-sensitizing and non-toxic at typical use levels, with only rare reports of irritation or allergy. As with any new skincare product a quick patch test is a smart move before full-face use.