What Is Glyceryl Behenate/Eicosadioate?
Glyceryl Behenate/Eicosadioate is a blend of glycerin connected to two long fatty acids: behenic acid, which comes from plant oils like rapeseed or peanut, and eicosanedioic acid, a rare di-acid usually prepared in the lab. The result is a wax-like material that melts at skin temperature and feels silky to the touch.
The cosmetic industry began exploring fatty acid esters in the late 1970s when brands searched for plant-based options to replace mineral oils. By the 1990s suppliers were offering refined versions of Glyceryl Behenate/Eicosadioate for creams and lotions because it gave products a richer texture without feeling greasy.
Production starts with vegetable glycerin. Chemists combine it with purified behenic acid then react the remaining free spot on glycerin with eicosanedioic acid. The mix is heated under vacuum to drive the reaction and then filtered to remove traces of catalyst. The final flakes are white odorless and easy to melt.
You will most often see this ingredient in moisturizers, night creams, anti-aging serums, solid cleansing sticks and nourishing face masks. Formulators like it in lip balms and body butters too because it boosts thickness and keeps oils and water from separating.
Glyceryl Behenate/Eicosadioate’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses
This ingredient does more than sit in the jar; it brings practical perks to the finished product.
- Emollient: Fills in tiny gaps on the skin surface so it feels softer and smoother; leaves a protective layer that slows water loss which helps skin stay hydrated longer
- Emulsifying: Helps blend oil and water into a stable cream or lotion; keeps the formula from splitting while it sits on the shelf or when you rub it onto skin
Who Can Use Glyceryl Behenate/Eicosadioate
This silky wax suits most skin types. Dry or mature skin tends to love the cushioning feel while normal and combination skin enjoy the extra softness without a heavy residue. Oily or very acne-prone skin can usually tolerate it but may prefer lighter textures if breakouts are a frequent concern because rich fatty esters can sometimes feel occlusive.
The ingredient is plant-derived, so it fits vegan and vegetarian lifestyles. Both the glycerin and behenic acid are sourced from vegetable oils and no animal by-products are involved during processing.
No data suggest issues for pregnant or breastfeeding women when it is used topically at the low levels found in cosmetics. This is informational only; anyone expecting or nursing should still check with a healthcare professional before adding new skincare just to stay on the safe side.
Glyceryl Behenate/Eicosadioate does not make skin more sensitive to sunlight and has no known interactions with SPF ingredients. It is also fragrance free and gluten free which may matter for people with specific sensitivities.
Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions
Reactions to topical Glyceryl Behenate/Eicosadioate vary from person to person. The following points list potential side effects but they are uncommon when the ingredient is used correctly in a well-formulated product.
- Mild skin irritation
- Temporary redness or warmth at the application site
- Clogged pores in individuals highly prone to comedones
- Allergic contact dermatitis in rare cases of sensitivity to fatty alcohols or esters
If any discomfort, rash or prolonged redness develops stop use and consult a healthcare professional.
Comedogenic Rating
Rating: 2/5. Glyceryl Behenate/Eicosadioate is a solid fatty acid ester so it has more weight than light oils yet its waxy structure melts quickly and spreads thinly, which reduces the chance of sitting in pores for long periods. Most users with normal to slightly oily skin do fine, but those with very clog-prone or severe acneic skin might notice congestion if the rest of the formula is also rich. Because it is typically used at low levels and has a silky finish it is considered low to moderate on the clogging scale.
Suitable for acne-prone skin: usually yes, though individuals who break out easily may prefer lighter options or watch how their skin responds.
The overall comedogenic impact depends heavily on the full product. Pairing this ester with non-occlusive humectants and lighter oils further lowers the risk.
Summary
Glyceryl Behenate/Eicosadioate works as an emollient that fills surface gaps to leave skin smooth and as an emulsifier that keeps oil and water blended in stable creams. It achieves these roles because its long fatty chains melt at body temperature creating a flexible film while the glycerin backbone helps anchor the oil phase to water.
The ingredient is moderately popular, showing up in richer face creams, body butters and lip care but less often in ultra-light gels. Formulators value the balance of cushion and non-greasy afterfeel although newer silicone alternatives have taken some market share.
Safety profiles list it as non-sensitizing and non-phototoxic when used at typical cosmetic levels. Serious reactions are rare, still it is wise to patch test any new product to be sure your skin agrees.