What Is Glycol Dilaurate?
Glycol Dilaurate is the cosmetic name for ethylene dilaurate, a compound made when ethylene glycol is joined with two molecules of lauric acid. Lauric acid occurs naturally in coconut and palm kernel oils, so the ingredient ultimately starts with these plant sources. In the lab the fatty acid is reacted with ethylene glycol in a simple heating process called esterification, then the finished ester is purified and cooled into a soft waxy solid.
The beauty industry adopted Glycol Dilaurate in the 1960s after formulators noticed it gave creams a silky feel without leaving a greasy film. Its plant origin, mildness and multi-tasking nature have kept it popular ever since. Today you will spot it in face and body moisturizers, hydrating masks, anti-aging creams, lightweight lotions, sunscreens, hair conditioners and even some body washes where it helps the wash feel richer on the skin.
Glycol Dilaurate’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses
This ingredient offers several helpful roles in a formula
- Skin Conditioning: It forms a light, breathable layer that smooths the skin surface, helping it look soft and healthy
- Emollient: Its fatty structure fills in tiny gaps between skin cells which improves flexibility and reduces rough patches
- Viscosity Controlling: It thickens lotions and creams just enough so they glide on evenly and stay stable over time
Who Can Use Glycol Dilaurate
Glycol Dilaurate is generally suited to normal, dry, combination and mature skin because its light emollient layer locks in moisture without feeling heavy. Oily or acne-prone skin can usually tolerate it as well, though very blemish-prone users may prefer lighter alternatives since any fatty ester has a small risk of clogging pores if layered with rich products.
The ingredient is produced from plant-derived lauric acid and synthetic ethylene glycol, so it contains no animal material. That means it meets vegan and vegetarian standards provided the finished product is not tested on animals.
Current safety data shows no specific concerns for women who are pregnant or breastfeeding when Glycol Dilaurate is applied topically in standard cosmetic amounts. This is not medical advice and anyone who is expecting or nursing should run new skincare routines past a doctor to be safe.
Glycol Dilaurate does not cause photosensitivity so it will not make skin more likely to burn in the sun. It is also fragrance free and non-volatile, which minimizes the chance of stinging on sensitive areas.
Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions
Reactions to Glycol Dilaurate vary from person to person. The following is a list of potential side effects, but most users will not experience them when the ingredient is used correctly in a well-formulated product.
- Mild skin irritation – slight redness or itching can occur on very sensitive skin
- Allergic contact dermatitis – rare allergy may present as rash or swelling
- Clogged pores and breakouts – possible in individuals who are highly acne-prone when the ingredient is combined with other heavy oils
- Eye irritation – watering or stinging if the product accidentally gets into the eyes
If you notice any of these reactions stop using the product and seek advice from a healthcare professional.
Comedogenic Rating
Glycol Dilaurate rates a 2 out of 5 on the comedogenic scale. Its fatty ester structure can linger on the skin more than water-based ingredients, so there is a mild chance of clogged pores, but the molecules are lighter than heavy plant butters that score 4 or 5. In most formulas it is used at low levels and is unlikely to cause issues for the average user.
This low-to-moderate score means the ingredient is generally acceptable for acne-prone skin as long as the overall product is not overly rich.
Keep in mind that how comedogenic a product feels depends on the full ingredient list and texture. A lightweight lotion with Glycol Dilaurate will behave very differently from a dense balm packed with multiple waxes.
Summary
Glycol Dilaurate conditions skin, adds a soft emollient finish and gently thickens emulsions. The lauric acid portion fills tiny surface gaps to smooth rough patches while the glycol portion keeps the feel breathable so skin stays comfortable, not greasy. Its waxy nature also helps stabilize creams to prevent separation over time.
While it is not the trendiest ingredient on shelves today, manufacturers still reach for it because it is dependable, versatile and cost-friendly, which explains its steady presence in moisturizers, sunscreens and hair care.
Safety assessments show Glycol Dilaurate to be low risk for irritation or toxicity at the concentrations used in cosmetics. Still, every skin type is unique so it is wise to patch test any new product that contains it before full-face or body use.