What Is Glycyrrhetinic Acid?
Glycyrrhetinic acid is a plant-based compound taken from the root of the licorice plant, Glycyrrhiza glabra. Chemically it is a triterpenoid acid formed when the sweet-tasting molecule glycyrrhizin is broken down. First noted in traditional herbal care for its calming feel on the skin, it began showing up in modern beauty formulas in the late 20th century as researchers isolated the active part responsible for those soothing effects.
To make cosmetic-grade glycyrrhetinic acid, manufacturers start with harvested licorice roots, extract glycyrrhizin with water or alcohol, then use controlled hydrolysis to split off the sugar part. The remaining pure acid is filtered, dried and milled into a fine powder that blends easily into creams and serums.
You will most often see this ingredient in calming masks, anti-aging creams, daily moisturizers, after-sun gels, dark spot correctors and leave-on treatments aimed at sensitive or stressed skin.
Glycyrrhetinic Acid’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses
This ingredient is prized for one key role in skin care.
Skin conditioning: Glycyrrhetinic acid helps the skin feel soft, comfortable and balanced. In a formula it can lessen the look of redness, support the skin’s natural barrier and leave the surface smoother and more even, which is why labs add it to products meant for soothing and revitalizing tired complexions.
Who Can Use Glycyrrhetinic Acid
Glycyrrhetinic acid suits most skin types including dry, normal, combination, oily and especially sensitive skin thanks to its calming nature. Those with extremely oily or acne-prone skin generally tolerate it well because the molecule is lightweight and non greasy, though results can vary if the finished product contains rich carriers.
The compound is plant derived from licorice root so it is considered suitable for both vegetarians and vegans. As always check the complete ingredient list because a few formulations may combine it with animal sourced waxes or emulsifiers.
Current research has not flagged topical glycyrrhetinic acid as a concern for women who are pregnant or breastfeeding. It has very low skin penetration and is used at modest levels in cosmetics. This is not medical advice and anyone who is pregnant or nursing should run any skin care routine past a qualified healthcare provider to be safe.
The ingredient does not increase photosensitivity, meaning you can apply it morning or night without additional sun risk. Standard daily sunscreen is still encouraged for overall skin health. Glycyrrhetinic acid also layers well with antioxidants, niacinamide, peptides and most exfoliating acids, making it a flexible choice in multi-step routines.
Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions
Responses to topical glycyrrhetinic acid differ from person to person. The effects listed below are possible yet uncommon for the average user when the ingredient is formulated correctly.
Mild redness or warmth
Temporary stinging or tingling upon application
Dry patches if used in a very high concentration or paired with strong exfoliants
Allergic contact dermatitis in individuals sensitive to licorice derivatives
If you experience any of these issues stop using the product and consult a healthcare professional.
Comedogenic Rating
Rating: 0 / 5. Glycyrrhetinic acid is a small lightweight molecule that does not form an occlusive film on the skin and is typically used at very low levels, so it does not clog pores. It is suitable for people who are prone to acne or breakouts. Because it is often paired with non-greasy carriers and is water soluble in salt form, the finished product usually feels light on the skin.
Summary
Glycyrrhetinic acid conditions skin by calming visible redness, supporting the barrier and leaving the surface smoother. It does this by interacting with endogenous enzymes that influence inflammation and by reinforcing the lipid matrix that keeps moisture in.
The ingredient is moderately popular in calming masks, after-sun gels and sensitive-skin moisturizers but it is still less common than big names like niacinamide or hyaluronic acid, mainly because it can be more costly to source in pure form.
Overall safety is high. It has low absorption, a long history of topical use and minimal reports of irritation. As with any new skincare ingredient you should patch test a fresh product first just to be sure your skin agrees with the full formula.