What Is Glycyrrhizic Acid?
Glycyrrhizic acid is a naturally occurring compound extracted from the roots of the licorice plant, Glycyrrhiza glabra. Chemically it is a triterpenoid saponin made up of glycyrrhetinic acid linked to two glucuronic acid molecules, which gives it both water-loving and oil-affinity segments. Licorice root has been prized in folk beauty rituals across Asia and the Mediterranean for centuries, but it was not until the mid-20th century that chemists isolated glycyrrhizic acid and began studying its topical benefits. Today suppliers obtain it by water or ethanol extraction of dried licorice root followed by filtration, precipitation and purification steps that yield a fine off-white powder or viscous solution ready for formulation.
Because of its soothing moisture-binding nature formulators add glycyrrhizic acid to sheet masks, calming gels, moisturizers, after-sun lotions, anti aging serums, brightening essences, scalp tonics and even lip balms. Its versatility lets it pair well with hydrating agents like glycerin or calming botanicals such as aloe.
Glycyrrhizic Acid’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses
In skincare products glycyrrhizic acid serves two key roles that enhance both feel and performance:
- Humectant – Draws water from the environment and deeper skin layers into the surface so formulas stay moist and skin feels plumper and more supple
- Skin conditioning – Softens and smooths the stratum corneum helping reduce roughness while creating a comfortable soothing finish that can ease the look of redness or tightness
Who Can Use Glycyrrhizic Acid
Glycyrrhizic acid is generally well tolerated by all major skin types, including dry, normal, combination and oily. Its water-attracting nature makes it especially helpful for dehydrated or mature skin while its calming effect can suit sensitive or redness-prone complexions. People with extremely oily or acneic skin can also use it because it is lightweight and non-greasy, though they may prefer lower concentrations to avoid any tacky feel.
The ingredient is plant derived from licorice root so it is suitable for vegans and vegetarians. No animal by-products or testing are involved in its standard sourcing.
Current research shows no known risks when glycyrrhizic acid is applied topically during pregnancy or while breastfeeding. That said this is not medical advice and anyone who is pregnant or nursing should discuss new skincare products with their physician first to be safe.
Glycyrrhizic acid does not increase photosensitivity so it will not make skin more prone to sunburn. Normal daily sun protection is still encouraged for overall skin health.
Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions
Reactions to topical glycyrrhizic acid vary from person to person. The effects listed below are uncommon and most users will not experience them when the ingredient is formulated and used correctly.
- Mild redness or stinging on very sensitive skin
- Allergic contact dermatitis presenting as itching or small bumps
- Transient dryness if combined with strong exfoliants or alcohol-heavy products
- Rare systemic effects such as slight rise in blood pressure when used over large body areas for prolonged periods
If any unwanted reaction occurs stop using the product and seek advice from a qualified healthcare professional.
Comedogenic Rating
Rating: 0 / 5 (non-comedogenic)
Glycyrrhizic acid is a water-soluble molecule with no oily or waxy residues so it does not clog pores. Formulations that use it are usually lightweight gels or lotions that sit on the skin surface without blocking sebaceous flow. Because it draws moisture rather than oil into the skin there is little risk of forming the buildup that can lead to blackheads or pimples.
Suitable for acne-prone or breakout-prone skin.
If the final product also contains heavy occlusives or rich plant butters the overall comedogenic profile will depend on those added ingredients, not the glycyrrhizic acid itself.
Summary
Glycyrrhizic acid mainly acts as a humectant and skin-conditioning agent. It binds water to keep formulas moist, then passes that hydration to the outer skin layers so they feel plump smooth and calm. Its mild soothing nature also helps take the edge off temporary redness or tightness.
The ingredient is moderately popular in modern skincare, often tucked into hydrating serums masks and after-sun gels, though it has not reached the mainstream fame of hyaluronic acid or niacinamide.
Topical use is considered very safe for most people with side effects being rare and usually mild. As with any new cosmetic we suggest doing a small patch test first just to be sure your skin agrees with it.