Gynostemma Pentaphyllum Extract: What Is It, Cosmetic Uses, Benefits & Side Effects

Curious about this ingredient? In this article we're explaining exactly what it is and why it's used within cosmetic formulations.
Updated on: June 27, 2025
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We verify all information on this page using publicly available nomenclature standards from The Personal Care Products Council (PCPC), the European Commission's CosIng database and documentation provided directly by ingredient manufacturers. Our analysis is based on technical data from these sources to ensure accuracy and reliability.

What Is Gynostemma Pentaphyllum Extract?

Gynostemma Pentaphyllum Extract is a plant derived ingredient pulled from the whole vine of Gynostemma pentaphyllum, a climbing herb in the cucumber family that grows across parts of Asia. The plant contains a mix of natural saponins called gypenosides along with flavonoids and minerals, elements that give the extract its skin friendly qualities. For centuries it has been brewed as an herbal tea prized for its refreshing taste; as interest in botanical skincare grew in the 1990s formulators began testing the herb on skin and found it helped tone and soften the surface which led to its move into cosmetic labs.

To make the extract, freshly harvested vines and leaves are cleaned, dried then steeped in a food grade solvent such as water or a water-glycol blend. The liquid is filtered, concentrated and gently dried to form either a fluid or powder that is easy to blend into creams and serums. You will see Gynostemma Pentaphyllum Extract in hydrating masks, lightweight moisturizers, anti-aging lotions and clarifying toners where it supports a balanced feel and smoother look.

Gynostemma Pentaphyllum Extract’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses

The extract serves more than one role in skincare formulas

  • Astringent – helps tighten the appearance of pores which can leave skin looking fresher and less shiny, especially helpful in toners or oil-control products
  • Skin conditioning – supplies plant compounds that soften and soothe the surface so skin feels comfortable and moisturized after use

Who Can Use Gynostemma Pentaphyllum Extract

This botanical fits most skin types, including oily, combination, normal and mildly sensitive complexions, because its astringent yet soothing nature helps balance surface oil while keeping the skin feel soft. Very dry or compromised skin may need a richer formula alongside it, as the ingredient itself is not highly occlusive.

Because the extract is entirely plant based and typically processed with vegan friendly solvents, it is considered suitable for both vegetarians and vegans who wish to avoid animal derived ingredients.

No specific concerns have been flagged for topical use during pregnancy or while breastfeeding, yet published research is limited. This information is not medical advice; expecting or nursing individuals should discuss any skincare product with their doctor before adding it to a routine.

The extract is not known to cause photosensitivity, so it does not make skin more vulnerable to sunburn. Standard daily sunscreen use remains important for overall skin health. There are no well documented ingredient conflicts, and it pairs well with common actives such as niacinamide or hyaluronic acid.

Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions

Reactions to topical Gynostemma Pentaphyllum Extract vary between individuals. The following list covers potential side effects, though most users will not experience them when the ingredient is formulated and used correctly.

  • Mild stinging or tingling sensation on very sensitive skin
  • Temporary redness or flushing, especially if applied to freshly exfoliated areas
  • Allergic contact dermatitis in those with an existing sensitivity to plants in the cucumber family
  • Dryness or a feeling of tightness if used in a formula that lacks adequate moisturizers

If any adverse reaction occurs discontinue use and seek guidance from a healthcare provider or dermatologist.

Comedogenic Rating

Rating: 1/5. Gynostemma Pentaphyllum Extract is primarily water soluble and contributes minimal oils or waxes to a formula, so it rarely clogs pores. Its natural saponins actually help dissolve surface oil which further lowers the likelihood of congestion. Suitable for acne-prone or breakout-prone skin in most cases. Only if the finished product includes heavy occlusives or if the user has a specific plant sensitivity might pore blockage become an issue.

Summary

Gynostemma Pentaphyllum Extract acts as an astringent that lightly tightens the look of pores while its gypenosides and flavonoids condition skin for a softer feel. These dual actions make it a handy addition to toners, gels and lightweight creams aimed at balance and comfort.

The ingredient sits in the middle ground of popularity, common in some Asian beauty lines yet still a botanical discovery for many Western brands. As clean beauty trends grow, interest in this vine extract is steadily rising.

Topically it is viewed as low risk with few documented adverse effects. Even so, skin is personal so perform a quick patch test when trying any new product containing this plant to confirm your own tolerance.

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