Helichrysum Italicum Leaf Cell Extract: What Is It, Cosmetic Uses, Benefits & Side Effects

Curious about this ingredient? In this article we're explaining exactly what it is and why it's used within cosmetic formulations.
Updated on: June 27, 2025
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We verify all information on this page using publicly available nomenclature standards from The Personal Care Products Council (PCPC), the European Commission's CosIng database and documentation provided directly by ingredient manufacturers. Our analysis is based on technical data from these sources to ensure accuracy and reliability.

What Is Helichrysum Italicum Leaf Cell Extract?

Helichrysum Italicum Leaf Cell Extract comes from the cultured leaf cells of Helichrysum italicum, a small aromatic plant in the daisy family often called immortelle. Instead of harvesting whole plants, labs take a tiny leaf sample and grow it in a sterile nutrient solution. The resulting cell culture is rich in natural compounds such as flavonoids, phenolic acids and terpenes that are prized for skin care. Using cell culture keeps the profile consistent, limits contaminants and is environmentally friendly because it spares wild plants.

Immortelle has a long history in traditional beauty rituals around the Mediterranean where its flowers were infused in oil for youthful looking skin. Cosmetic chemists adopted it in modern times, and the step into cell culture technology made the ingredient more sustainable and easier to standardize.

After the cells multiply in stainless steel bioreactors, they are filtered and the concentrated cell mass is extracted with water or glycerin. The finished extract is then blended into formulas as a liquid or powder.

You will spot Helichrysum Italicum Leaf Cell Extract in clay or cream masks, mattifying moisturizers, anti-aging serums, lightweight lotions for oily or combination skin, setting powders and even some stick foundations where oil control is a main goal.

Helichrysum Italicum Leaf Cell Extract’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses

This ingredient is valued mainly for one key function:

Absorbent: It soaks up excess sebum and moisture on the skin surface which helps control unwanted shine, leaves a soft matte finish and improves the staying power of makeup. In emulsions it can also take up small amounts of free oil or water to keep the texture stable and smooth.

Who Can Use Helichrysum Italicum Leaf Cell Extract

Because it excels at soaking up surface oil, this ingredient is a natural fit for oily, combination or normal skin that tends to get shiny through the day. People with very dry or easily dehydrated skin may find it too mattifying since prolonged oil absorption can leave their face feeling tight. Sensitive skin usually tolerates it well, but anyone prone to irritation from botanical extracts should keep an eye on how their skin reacts.

Helichrysum Italicum Leaf Cell Extract is a plant-based material grown in a lab without animal derivatives or by-products so it meets vegan and vegetarian standards.

No specific warnings exist for pregnant or breastfeeding women. The extract stays on the skin surface and is used in small amounts, but this is not medical advice; anyone expecting or nursing should show the full ingredient list of any product to their health care provider before use to be extra cautious.

The extract itself is not known to cause photosensitivity and it can be worn during the day under sunscreen without concern. Apart from its oil-absorbing activity there are no other special considerations, making it a versatile option in most daily routines.

Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions

Side effects from topical Helichrysum Italicum Leaf Cell Extract differ from person to person. The points below describe potential reactions only; when the ingredient is correctly formulated most users will not experience any problems.

  • Dryness or tightness: heavy or frequent use can remove too much surface oil on already dry skin
  • Flaking or rough texture: over-mattifying formulas may lead to visible flaky patches
  • Mild irritation: a small number of users can develop redness stinging or itching from natural plant compounds
  • Allergic contact dermatitis: rare but possible in individuals allergic to members of the daisy family
  • Interaction with other drying actives: pairing it with high levels of alcohol clay or strong exfoliating acids can amplify dehydration

If any unwanted reaction occurs stop using the product and seek advice from a qualified dermatologist or health professional.

Comedogenic Rating

Rating: 0–1 (very low)

Helichrysum Italicum Leaf Cell Extract is supplied as a lightweight water or glycerin based extract that does not leave an oily film. Its main job is to mop up surface sebum rather than sit inside pores, so it is highly unlikely to trigger clogs. Formulators typically use it at low percentages which keeps the comedogenic risk minimal.

Because of its oil absorbing nature this ingredient generally suits people who are prone to acne or breakouts and may even help reduce the look of shine that often accompanies active blemishes.

Only when an extract is blended into an overly rich base or combined with heavy occlusive agents could the overall product become pore clogging, so always judge the full formula not the single ingredient.

Summary

Helichrysum Italicum Leaf Cell Extract acts mainly as an absorbent that soaks up excess oil and moisture on the skin surface. By taking in that extra sebum it leaves a soft matte finish, keeps makeup from sliding, stabilises emulsion textures and can slightly extend product shelf life by binding free water.

Although immortelle flower oil is fairly well known, the cultured leaf cell extract is still a niche component seen mostly in modern clean beauty or K-beauty inspired oil control products. Its quiet popularity is growing as brands look for sustainable alternatives to traditional clays and powders.

Current safety data shows a low risk profile with only occasional dryness or minor irritation reported. As with any new skincare step it is wise to do a quick patch test before full use so you can spot any personal sensitivities early.

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