What Is Hexacarboxymethyl Dipeptide-12?
Hexacarboxymethyl Dipeptide-12 is a lab-made ingredient that starts with a simple chain of two amino acids, also known as a dipeptide. Chemists attach six carboxymethyl groups to that dipeptide, which boosts its water solubility and allows it to bind moisture once it is blended into a cream or serum. Because it is fully synthetic, there is no animal or plant harvesting involved; production takes place in controlled facilities where amino acids are linked, purified and then chemically modified in a series of reaction and filtration steps.
Peptides first caught the beauty industry’s eye in the early 2000s when brands looked for gentler options to support hydrated, even-toned skin. As research moved forward, smaller chains like Dipeptide-12 were tweaked to improve stability and absorption, leading to specialized versions such as Hexacarboxymethyl Dipeptide-12. Today you will most often spot it in leave-on products that aim to keep skin soft and supple, including lightweight moisturizers, hydrating serums, sheet masks and multi-tasking anti-aging formulas.
Hexacarboxymethyl Dipeptide-12’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses
In skincare formulas Hexacarboxymethyl Dipeptide-12 serves one main purpose, and that role brings a clear benefit to the finished product.
As a humectant it attracts and holds on to water, helping the formula draw moisture from the environment and the deeper layers of the skin toward the surface. This extra hydration can leave skin looking plumper and feeling smoother while also improving the spreadability and light feel of the product itself.
Who Can Use Hexacarboxymethyl Dipeptide-12
Because its primary role is to pull water into the skin rather than form an occlusive film, Hexacarboxymethyl Dipeptide-12 is generally well suited to every skin type. Dry and dehydrated complexions benefit from the moisture boost, while normal and combination skin appreciate the light non greasy feel. Oily or acne-prone users typically tolerate it too since the molecule is lightweight and does not clog pores.
The ingredient is fully synthetic so no animal-derived matter is used at any stage of production. This makes it compatible with vegan and vegetarian lifestyles.
Current safety data show no specific risks for women who are pregnant or breastfeeding, and its mechanism of action is strictly topical. That said this information is not medical advice. Anyone who is expecting or nursing should have their healthcare provider review all personal care products to be safe.
Hexacarboxymethyl Dipeptide-12 does not increase photosensitivity, so it will not make skin more prone to sunburn. Standard daytime sun protection is still recommended as part of a well rounded routine.
Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions
Individual reactions to topical Hexacarboxymethyl Dipeptide-12 can vary. The points below list potential side effects, but they are uncommon when the ingredient is correctly formulated and used as directed.
Mild redness or warmth at the application site
Temporary itching or tingling
Rare cases of allergic contact dermatitis presenting as a rash
Stinging or watering of the eyes if the product accidentally migrates into the ocular area
If any of these issues occur stop using the product and seek advice from a qualified healthcare professional or dermatologist.
Comedogenic Rating
Rating: 0–1
Hexacarboxymethyl Dipeptide-12 is a small, highly water-soluble molecule that stays dissolved in the watery phase of a formula rather than forming heavy films on the skin. It lacks fatty acid chains and oily residues that typically plug pores, so the likelihood of it trapping sebum or debris is extremely low. In finished products it is usually present at low concentrations alongside lightweight bases, keeping its clogging potential minimal.
This profile makes the ingredient suitable for people who are prone to acne or frequent breakouts.
Formulation factors still matter; pairing the peptide with very rich plant butters or waxes could raise the overall comedogenicity of a product, but the peptide itself remains non-pore-clogging.
Summary
Hexacarboxymethyl Dipeptide-12 works primarily as a humectant, binding moisture thanks to its six carboxymethyl groups that attract and hold water molecules. By drawing hydration toward the skin surface it helps keep the complexion plump and comfortable while giving formulas a light silky glide.
Although peptides in general have been trending upward since the early 2000s this particular derivative is still a niche addition, appearing in select hydrating serums, sheet masks and modern gel moisturizers rather than in every mainstream product.
Current data show the ingredient is low risk, vegan friendly and well tolerated by most skin types including sensitive or acne-prone. As with any new skincare step it is wise to perform a quick patch test first to rule out unexpected irritation before applying widely.