What Is Hexanediol/Adipate/Citrate Crosspolymer?
Hexanediol/Adipate/Citrate Crosspolymer is a man-made polymer created by linking 1,6-hexanediol and adipic acid, then crosslinking the chain with citric acid to give it extra stability. The starting materials are petroleum-derived diols and diacids that are reacted under controlled heat with citric acid acting as the branching point. This three-component build gives the final material a flexible backbone and plenty of sites that can interact with other ingredients, which is why it behaves so well in liquids.
The cosmetic world began to explore this polymer in the early 2000s when brands were searching for lightweight, multi-purpose solvents that could replace heavier oils. Its ability to dissolve both water-loving and oil-loving ingredients made it attractive in color cosmetics and skin care formulas. Over time formulators noticed that it also improved texture and spreadability, so its use spread quickly from niche makeup primers to mainstream skin creams.
Commercial production involves heating 1,6-hexanediol with adipic acid in the presence of a catalyst until long chains form, then adding citric acid to create crosslinks. Once the reaction reaches the desired molecular weight the mixture is cooled, neutralized and purified, usually ending up as a clear viscous liquid that is easy to pump and blend.
You will often spot Hexanediol/Adipate/Citrate Crosspolymer in lightweight moisturizers, facial serums, gel masks, sunscreens, liquid foundations and sprayable treatments where a non-greasy feel is important.
Hexanediol/Adipate/Citrate Crosspolymer’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses
This ingredient delivers a single but valuable function in formulations.
As a solvent it helps dissolve active ingredients, pigments and fragrances so they stay evenly distributed throughout the product, which prevents separation and ensures each application delivers the same performance while keeping the texture smooth and pleasant.
Who Can Use Hexanediol/Adipate/Citrate Crosspolymer
This polymer is considered gentle enough for all skin types including oily, dry, combination and sensitive because it is lightweight and non occlusive so it will not clog pores or leave a greasy film. Those with very dry skin might still need richer emollients alongside it because the ingredient itself does not add moisture.
It is fully synthetic with no animal derived materials so it is suitable for both vegans and vegetarians.
Current safety data shows no reproductive toxicity, which means products containing Hexanediol/Adipate/Citrate Crosspolymer are generally viewed as safe for women who are pregnant or breastfeeding. This is not medical advice and anyone who is expecting or nursing should discuss all skincare choices with a healthcare professional to be sure.
The molecule does not react with sunlight, so it does not cause photosensitivity or make the skin more prone to sunburn.
Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions
Responses to topical ingredients vary from person to person. The following is a list of potential side effects linked to Hexanediol/Adipate/Citrate Crosspolymer. These reactions are rare and most users will not experience them when the ingredient is properly formulated.
- Temporary skin redness or warmth if applied to already compromised skin
- Mild stinging for a few seconds on very sensitive or freshly exfoliated skin
- Contact dermatitis in individuals with a specific allergy to hexanediol derivatives
- Eye irritation if the product is accidentally rubbed into the eyes before it sets
If any discomfort or visible reaction occurs discontinue use and consult a medical professional for guidance.
Comedogenic Rating
Hexanediol/Adipate/Citrate Crosspolymer receives a comedogenic rating of 0–1. Its large branched structure tends to stay on the surface without forming a pore-blocking film, so it rarely traps oil or debris that could spark blackheads or whiteheads.
This profile means the ingredient is generally suitable for people prone to acne or frequent breakouts.
The rating can lean closer to 1 in anhydrous formulas that use very high concentrations, but in typical water-based serums and creams it poses minimal clogging risk.
Summary
Hexanediol/Adipate/Citrate Crosspolymer works primarily as a solvent, keeping actives pigments and fragrances evenly mixed so products feel smooth and deliver consistent results. Its flexible backbone can interact with both water-friendly and oil-friendly molecules then lock them in place to stop separation and improve spreadability.
Although not as well known as silicones or natural oils, the polymer has gained steady popularity in lightweight serums face creams and liquid makeup because it provides a non-greasy feel and broad formulating versatility.
Safety assessments rate it low risk with only occasional mild irritation reports. As with any new cosmetic it is wise to patch test a product containing this ingredient to confirm it suits your individual skin.