Hexanoyl Dipeptide-3 Norleucine Acetate: What Is It, Cosmetic Uses, Benefits & Side Effects

Curious about this ingredient? In this article we're explaining exactly what it is and why it's used within cosmetic formulations.
Updated on: June 27, 2025
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We verify all information on this page using publicly available nomenclature standards from The Personal Care Products Council (PCPC), the European Commission's CosIng database and documentation provided directly by ingredient manufacturers. Our analysis is based on technical data from these sources to ensure accuracy and reliability.

What Is Hexanoyl Dipeptide-3 Norleucine Acetate?

Hexanoyl Dipeptide-3 Norleucine Acetate is a lab-made peptide that results when a short chain of two amino acids, known as Dipeptide-3, is first linked to hexanoic acid and then combined with the amino acid norleucine before finally being converted into its acetate salt form. This small change in its structure helps it stay stable and penetrate the top layers of skin more easily than the original peptide. The ingredient was introduced in the early 2010s as researchers looked for gentler alternatives to fruit acids and scrubs for refining skin texture. Today it is produced through controlled fermentation of amino acids followed by a series of chemical steps that attach the hexanoyl group, join norleucine, and neutralize the mix with acetic acid to create the final salt. You will most often find Hexanoyl Dipeptide-3 Norleucine Acetate in anti-aging serums, leave-on exfoliating lotions, sheet masks, and brightening creams where a smoother, fresher look is the goal.

Hexanoyl Dipeptide-3 Norleucine Acetate’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses

This peptide is prized for the way it conditions the skin, leaving it looking polished yet comfortable. As a skin conditioning agent it encourages gentle surface renewal so dull dead cells shed more evenly. Over time the skin feels softer, appears clearer and reflects light better which can make fine lines and minor discolorations less noticeable. Because it works without the stinging often linked to stronger acids, it suits formulas aimed at users who want a mild refinement step in their daily routine.

Who Can Use Hexanoyl Dipeptide-3 Norleucine Acetate

This peptide is generally well suited to all major skin types including normal, dry, combination and oily. Its gentle exfoliating action makes it a friendly option for sensitive skin too, as it tends to work without the tingling or burning sometimes linked to stronger acids. Those with compromised or highly reactive skin should still proceed slowly because any active that nudges cell turnover can feel prickly on a weakened barrier.

The ingredient is produced through fermentation and synthetic chemistry with no animal-derived components, which makes it compatible with vegan and vegetarian lifestyles.

No specific warnings exist for pregnant or breastfeeding women, but research on expectant mothers is limited. Out of an abundance of caution it is best to run any skincare routine past a qualified health professional if you are pregnant or nursing. This content is not medical advice.

Hexanoyl Dipeptide-3 Norleucine Acetate does not increase photosensitivity, so it will not make skin more prone to sunburn. Daily sunscreen is still recommended for overall skin health.

The ingredient plays nicely with most other actives, though pairing it with high levels of strong acids or retinoids in the same routine could compound exfoliation and potentially lead to dryness.

Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions

Responses to topical Hexanoyl Dipeptide-3 Norleucine Acetate can differ from person to person. The effects listed below are only potential outcomes and are unlikely for the average user when the ingredient is properly formulated and used as directed.

  • Mild redness or warmth shortly after application
  • Transient stinging on very sensitive or freshly exfoliated skin
  • Dryness or flakiness if layered with other strong exfoliants
  • Localized itching or rash in the rare case of an allergic reaction
  • Eye irritation if the product migrates too close to the lash line

If any of these reactions occur discontinue use and consult a healthcare professional if symptoms persist or worsen.

Comedogenic Rating

Rating: 0 out of 5. Hexanoyl Dipeptide-3 Norleucine Acetate is a small water-soluble peptide with no oily or waxy residues that could clog pores. It is used at very low concentrations, rinses away cleanly if formulated in wash-off products and remains lightweight in leave-on formulas. As a result it is considered non-comedogenic and is generally suitable for skin that is prone to acne or breakouts. Because it works by gently encouraging cell turnover rather than sitting inside pores, it poses little risk of contributing to blackheads or whiteheads.

Summary

Hexanoyl Dipeptide-3 Norleucine Acetate is a lab-crafted peptide that conditions skin by nudging surface renewal, which helps skin feel smoother, look clearer and reflect light more evenly. Its mild action offers an alternative to stronger acids, giving brands a way to add gentle refinement without harsh side effects. Though not yet a household name, it is slowly gaining space in anti-aging serums, sheet masks and brightening lotions thanks to its friendly profile and vegan origin.

Current data show the ingredient is well tolerated for most users with minimal risk when used as directed. As with any new skincare addition it is wise to patch test a fresh product first to be sure your skin agrees with it.

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