Hexylene Glycol/Neopentyl Glycol/Adipic Acid/Smdi/Dmpa Copolymer: What Is It, Cosmetic Uses, Benefits & Side Effects

Curious about this ingredient? In this article we're explaining exactly what it is and why it's used within cosmetic formulations.
Updated on: June 27, 2025
Share:
Inside this article:

We verify all information on this page using publicly available nomenclature standards from The Personal Care Products Council (PCPC), the European Commission's CosIng database and documentation provided directly by ingredient manufacturers. Our analysis is based on technical data from these sources to ensure accuracy and reliability.

What Is Hexylene Glycol/Neopentyl Glycol/Adipic Acid/Smdi/Dmpa Copolymer?

Hexylene Glycol/Neopentyl Glycol/Adipic Acid/Smdi/Dmpa Copolymer is a synthetic polymer created by linking together several small building blocks: hexylene glycol, neopentyl glycol, adipic acid, saturated methylene diphenyldiisocyanate and dimethylol propionic acid. Each part brings its own traits, and once combined they form a flexible yet durable film on the skin. The raw materials are reacted under carefully controlled heat and pressure in the presence of catalysts until long chains form. After purification the finished polymer looks like a clear to slightly hazy liquid or soft resin.

Polymers like this one began appearing in cosmetics in the late 1990s when formulators looked for lighter alternatives to heavy waxes and oils. The blend of glycols, acids and diisocyanate produced a film that could flex with facial movement without cracking, which quickly made it popular in color cosmetics. Today you will spot it in long-wear foundations, liquid lipsticks, mascaras, eyebrow gels, makeup primers, peel-off masks and certain leave-on skin treatments that need a smooth topcoat.

Hexylene Glycol/Neopentyl Glycol/Adipic Acid/Smdi/Dmpa Copolymer’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses

The ingredient plays a single but important role in formulas.

As a film forming agent it spreads over skin or hair and dries into a thin, flexible layer. This film locks pigments in place, boosts water and smudge resistance and gives a smoother finish. In skin care it can help hold moisture by reducing surface water loss, while in mascaras or brow products it keeps hairs lifted and groomed for longer wear.

Who Can Use Hexylene Glycol/Neopentyl Glycol/Adipic Acid/Smdi/Dmpa Copolymer

This film former is generally friendly to all skin types. Its lightweight texture suits oily or combination skin while the flexible coating can help dry skin hold on to moisture a bit longer. Sensitive skin usually tolerates it because it sits on the surface and has a low irritation profile, though anyone prone to contact allergies should still keep an eye on how their skin feels.

The polymer is fully synthetic and contains no animal by-products, so it is considered suitable for vegans and vegetarians.

Current safety data show no specific risks for pregnancy or breastfeeding. Because hormonal shifts can make skin more reactive, pregnant or nursing women should still discuss any new cosmetic product with a healthcare professional to be safe. This is not medical advice.

The ingredient does not absorb UV light and is not known to increase photosensitivity. It is also odorless and non-volatile, making it unlikely to trigger fragrance or vapor related discomfort.

Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions

Responses to topical Hexylene Glycol/Neopentyl Glycol/Adipic Acid/Smdi/Dmpa Copolymer vary from person to person. The effects listed below are possible but uncommon when the ingredient is used at typical cosmetic levels.

Temporary redness or mild stinging on very sensitive skin

Allergic contact dermatitis in individuals already sensitized to polyurethane type resins

Eye irritation if the product migrates into the eye area before it sets

Surface buildup that feels tight or flaky when multiple long-wear products containing the polymer are layered

If you notice any of these reactions discontinue use and seek advice from a qualified healthcare professional.

Comedogenic Rating

Rating: 1 / 5 — very low likelihood of clogging pores

This polymer is large in size, contains no greasy oils and stays mostly on the surface instead of sinking into follicles. Because it dries into a thin breathable film it does not trap much oil or dead skin that could spark breakouts. For these reasons it earns a near-zero score, though people who already struggle with congestion might notice build-up if they layer several long-wear products that all contain heavy film formers.

Overall it is considered suitable for acne-prone skin.

Summary

Hexylene Glycol/Neopentyl Glycol/Adipic Acid/Smdi/Dmpa Copolymer is a man-made film former that spreads easily then sets into a flexible coat. This coat locks makeup pigments in place, boosts water and smudge resistance and can lightly slow moisture loss from skin or hair. Its popularity sits in the middle of the pack: not a viral star but a steady workhorse found in many long-wear foundations, mascaras, liquid lipsticks and peel-off masks.

Current research shows it is low in irritation, non-sensitizing for most users and has a very low comedogenic rating. Still, every skin is unique so it is smart to patch test any new product that lists this polymer before using it on your whole face.

Was this article helpful?
More from Glooshi:
ADVERTISEMENT
Get all our top headlines in beauty.
Delivered right to your inbox each week. Zero spam, all goodness, opt-out at anytime.
This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply.
Get the latest beauty news, top product recommendations & brand-exclusive discount codes direct to your inbox.
Send good feedback:

All feedback is greatly appreciated, anonymous, and will be used to improve the quality of our articles.

This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply.
Send bad feedback:

All feedback is greatly appreciated, anonymous, and will be used to improve the quality of our articles.

This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply.
Search