Hydrogenated Apricot Oil Unsaponifiables: What Is It, Cosmetic Uses, Benefits & Side Effects

Curious about this ingredient? In this article we're explaining exactly what it is and why it's used within cosmetic formulations.
Updated on: June 27, 2025
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We verify all information on this page using publicly available nomenclature standards from The Personal Care Products Council (PCPC), the European Commission's CosIng database and documentation provided directly by ingredient manufacturers. Our analysis is based on technical data from these sources to ensure accuracy and reliability.

What Is Hydrogenated Apricot Oil Unsaponifiables?

Hydrogenated Apricot Oil Unsaponifiables comes from the kernels of the apricot, Prunus armeniaca. After the edible oil is pressed out, a fraction known as “unsaponifiables” remains; it is rich in natural lipids like phytosterols, tocopherols and minor waxes that do not turn into soap when treated with an alkali. Through a controlled hydrogenation step, these unsaponifiables are stabilized, yielding a butter-like ingredient that resists oxidation and stays solid at room temperature.

Apricot kernels have been valued in folk beauty rituals for centuries thanks to their lightweight nourishing oil. Modern formulators began isolating the unsaponifiable fraction in the late 20th century when studies showed it delivered more concentrated skin-friendly compounds than the bulk oil. Hydrogenation soon followed as a way to improve shelf life and texture, making the material easier to incorporate into creams and conditioners.

The finished ingredient is created by extracting the unsaponifiables from crude apricot oil, filtering out impurities then adding hydrogen under controlled pressure and temperature. This process saturates double bonds, giving the material greater stability without significantly altering its beneficial components.

You will typically find Hydrogenated Apricot Oil Unsaponifiables in moisturizers, rich face masks, anti-aging serums, lip balms, hand creams, leave-in hair conditioners and deep-treatment hair masks where it lends a velvety slip and long-lasting emollience.

Hydrogenated Apricot Oil Unsaponifiables’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses

This multitasking lipid enhances both skin and hair products in several ways

  • Hair conditioning – forms a lightweight film over the hair shaft that smooths cuticles, reduces frizz, boosts shine and makes detangling easier without a greasy feel
  • Skin conditioning – supplies emollient lipids that soften rough patches, reinforce the skin’s natural barrier, improve flexibility and leave a silky non-sticky afterfeel

Who Can Use Hydrogenated Apricot Oil Unsaponifiables

This ingredient suits most skin types. Dry and mature skin benefit from its barrier-supporting lipids while normal and combination skin enjoy the soft finish without heavy residue. Oily or acne-prone users usually tolerate it but should monitor for congestion if they know they react easily to richer plant butters.

Because it is derived solely from apricot kernels it is appropriate for vegans and vegetarians. No animal derivatives or processing aids are involved in its manufacture.

Current safety data show no specific concerns for women who are pregnant or breastfeeding. Still, this is not medical advice and anyone expecting or nursing should have their healthcare provider review all personal care products before use.

Hydrogenated Apricot Oil Unsaponifiables does not increase photosensitivity so there is no special need for extra sun precautions beyond normal daily SPF use.

Those with confirmed stone fruit allergies should scan ingredient lists carefully, although the risk is low because proteins responsible for reactions are largely absent in the refined unsaponifiable fraction.

Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions

Responses to any cosmetic ingredient differ from person to person. The effects below are possible yet uncommon when Hydrogenated Apricot Oil Unsaponifiables is used as intended in finished formulas.

  • Mild clogged pores or surface breakouts in individuals highly prone to comedogenic reactions
  • Contact irritation or redness in those with sensitivities to apricot derivatives or plant lipids
  • Scalp buildup or greasiness if very large amounts are left on fine hair
  • Transient eye irritation if the product accidentally migrates into the eyes

If you notice persistent irritation or any unexpected reaction stop using the product and consult a qualified healthcare professional.

Comedogenic Rating

Rating: 2/5. Hydrogenated Apricot Oil Unsaponifiables is mostly composed of saturated and mono-unsaturated lipids that are lightweight yet still richer than plain esters or silicones. This gives it a low to moderate chance of blocking pores, especially in formulas that use a high percentage of the ingredient. Most users, even those with combination skin, tolerate it well but exceptionally acne-prone individuals might notice congestion if they layer it with other heavy emulsions.

Overall it is generally suitable for breakout-prone skin, though very oily or severely congested complexions may prefer ingredients with a lower rating.

Formulation context matters: when blended with fast-absorbing carriers or used at modest levels the risk drops further. The final product texture, presence of film-forming agents and cleansing habits will influence real-world performance.

Summary

Hydrogenated Apricot Oil Unsaponifiables delivers two key benefits: it conditions skin by supplying barrier-supportive lipids that soften and smooth and it conditions hair by coating strands with a thin emollient layer that tames frizz and boosts shine. Hydrogenation stabilises naturally occurring phytosterols and tocopherols so they resist oxidation and keep formulas feeling velvety instead of greasy.

The ingredient is a quiet achiever rather than a headline act, appreciated by formulators who want a plant-based butter that feels lighter than shea yet richer than jojoba. You will spot it more often in premium moisturisers, lip balms and leave-in hair masks than in mass-market lotions but its usage is gradually rising as brands look for sustainable alternatives to synthetic emollients.

Current data show it to be a safe cosmetic ingredient with a very low incidence of irritation or sensitisation. As with any new product it is wise to patch test first to make sure your skin agrees with the complete formula.

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