Hydrogenated Calophyllum Inophyllum Seed Oil: What Is It, Cosmetic Uses, Benefits & Side Effects

Curious about this ingredient? In this article we're explaining exactly what it is and why it's used within cosmetic formulations.
Updated on: June 27, 2025
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We verify all information on this page using publicly available nomenclature standards from The Personal Care Products Council (PCPC), the European Commission's CosIng database and documentation provided directly by ingredient manufacturers. Our analysis is based on technical data from these sources to ensure accuracy and reliability.

What Is Hydrogenated Calophyllum Inophyllum Seed Oil?

Hydrogenated Calophyllum Inophyllum Seed Oil starts with the seeds of the Calophyllum inophyllum tree, also called tamanu or beach mahogany, which grows in tropical coastal regions. The raw seed oil is rich in fatty acids like oleic and linoleic acid along with natural plant waxes. Through a process called hydrogenation, manufacturers add hydrogen atoms to the oil under controlled heat and pressure. This turns many of the unsaturated fatty acids into saturated ones, giving the finished oil a thicker, more stable texture that resists oxidation and rancidity.

Traditional communities have used tamanu oil for generations to soothe skin. Modern cosmetic chemists picked up on these age-old practices in the late 20th century, finding that the hydrogenated form keeps the comforting qualities of the original oil while offering better shelf life and a smoother feel. Because of these traits, the ingredient now appears in moisturizers, night creams, lip balms, solid lotions, anti-aging serums and masks where a rich yet non-greasy finish is desired.

Hydrogenated Calophyllum Inophyllum Seed Oil’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses

This multitasking plant oil brings two main benefits to skin care formulas:

  • Skin conditioning: Forms a soft, flexible film on the surface of the skin that helps trap moisture, leaving skin feeling smooth and nurtured
  • Emollient: Fills in tiny gaps between skin cells to soften rough patches and improve overall texture which can make products feel more luxurious and glide on evenly

Who Can Use Hydrogenated Calophyllum Inophyllum Seed Oil

This ingredient suits most skin types, especially dry, normal and mature skin that crave long lasting moisture and a supple feel. Combination skin can also enjoy it in lighter formulations. Those with very oily or acne prone skin may find it a bit heavy because its rich fatty acid profile can sit on the surface and possibly trap sebum.

Hydrogenated Calophyllum Inophyllum Seed Oil is derived entirely from a plant source and the hydrogenation step does not require animal products, so it is considered suitable for vegans and vegetarians.

Current research shows no specific issues for pregnant or breastfeeding women when the oil is used topically in standard cosmetic concentrations. This is not medical advice and anyone who is pregnant or nursing should ask a qualified doctor before adding new products to their routine just to be safe.

The oil does not make skin more sensitive to sunlight, so there is no added risk of photosensitivity. It is also fragrance free and highly stable which helps minimize oxidation related irritation.

Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions

Responses to topical Hydrogenated Calophyllum Inophyllum Seed Oil vary from person to person. The points below list potential side effects that could occur, though they are uncommon when the ingredient is formulated and used correctly.

  • Mild redness or stinging in very sensitive skin
  • Allergic contact dermatitis in individuals allergic to tamanu or related botanical proteins
  • Clogged pores or breakouts in some oily or acne prone users
  • Rare itching or swelling due to individual intolerance

If any irritation or unexpected reaction develops stop using the product and seek guidance from a healthcare professional.

Comedogenic Rating

Rating: 2 out of 5. The oil contains a mix of saturated and monounsaturated fatty acids that can sit on the skin longer than lighter oils yet it is not as pore clogging as heavier butters. Hydrogenating the original tamanu oil raises its melting point and occlusivity, which bumps the rating slightly above truly lightweight oils but it still falls in the low-to-moderate range.

Most people prone to blemishes can tolerate it in well balanced formulas or rinse-off products, although very acne-prone users may prefer to avoid leave-on products rich in this ingredient.

Texture, concentration and the overall formula matter; when used at low levels or blended with fast-absorbing esters its clogging potential drops even further.

Summary

Hydrogenated Calophyllum Inophyllum Seed Oil works mainly as a skin conditioning agent and emollient. It smooths the skin surface by filling microscopic gaps between cells and creates a soft breathable layer that locks in moisture, helping skin feel supple and comfortable for hours. Because hydrogenation makes it more stable than raw tamanu oil it also lends a creamy consistency and longer shelf life to balms, creams and sticks.

The ingredient is still a niche choice compared to classics like shea or jojoba but its presence is growing in eco-conscious and luxury formulations that aim for a rich yet elegant finish.

Overall safety is high with few reports of irritation or allergy. As with any new skincare ingredient it is wise to patch test a product containing this oil before full use just to be cautious.

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