What Is Hydrogenated Dimer Dilinoleth-20?
Hydrogenated Dimer Dilinoleth-20 is a synthetic ingredient made from plant-derived fatty acids. Chemists start with linoleic acid found in oils like soybean or sunflower, link two of those molecules together to form a “dimer,” then hydrogenate it to make the material more stable. The resulting fatty alcohol is reacted with about twenty units of ethylene oxide, creating a polyethylene glycol (PEG) chain that boosts its water-loving character. First introduced in the late 1980s as part of a wave of new PEG surfactants, it quickly gained favor for its gentle yet effective cleaning power and its ability to mix oil with water. You will commonly see it in facial cleansers, micellar waters, makeup removers, lightweight lotions, sheet masks, sunscreens, hair conditioners and even some creamy body washes where a smooth, non-greasy feel is desired.
Hydrogenated Dimer Dilinoleth-20’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses
This versatile material offers two main technical roles that translate into real-world benefits for skin and hair products.
- Cleansing: Its balanced oil-and-water loving structure lifts away excess sebum, makeup and daily grime without leaving skin tight or stripped, making formulas feel mild yet thorough
- Emulsifying: It helps oil and water stay blended, giving creams and lotions a uniform texture, preventing separation during shelf life and allowing active ingredients to spread evenly across the skin
Who Can Use Hydrogenated Dimer Dilinoleth-20
Because it balances oil removing power with a soft finish, Hydrogenated Dimer Dilinoleth-20 works well for most skin types including oily, normal, dry, combination and sensitive skin. It does not leave a heavy film so acne-prone users usually tolerate it, though those extremely reactive to any PEG material may prefer to steer clear.
The raw materials come from plant oils and the manufacturing steps do not involve animal-derived substances or animal testing, so products that use this ingredient are generally suitable for vegans and vegetarians. Always check the full label to be sure the rest of the formula meets personal standards.
Current safety data show no specific risks for pregnant or breastfeeding women when the ingredient is used in rinse-off or leave-on cosmetics at common levels. This is not medical advice and anyone who is expecting or nursing should run any skincare choices past a doctor to be on the safe side.
Hydrogenated Dimer Dilinoleth-20 is not known to cause photosensitivity, so it will not make skin more prone to sunburn. As with all cosmetics, pair daytime use with an appropriate sunscreen for overall skin health.
Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions
Reactions to topical Hydrogenated Dimer Dilinoleth-20 vary from person to person. The effects listed below are only potential outcomes and are unlikely for most users when the ingredient is used correctly by the product maker.
- Mild redness or stinging
- Temporary dryness if paired with very strong cleansers
- Rare allergic contact dermatitis in individuals sensitive to PEGs
- Eye irritation if the formula accidentally gets into the eyes
If you experience any of these issues stop using the product and consult a healthcare professional
Comedogenic Rating
Rating: 1/5 Hydrogenated Dimer Dilinoleth-20 is considered very low on the pore-clogging scale because its PEG chain makes it highly water-soluble and easy to rinse away. The molecule is bulky so it does not sink into follicles the way heavier oils can. Most acne-prone users should find it compatible with their routines. People with extremely reactive or occlusion-sensitive skin may still prefer lighter formulas, but overall the ingredient is viewed as non-problematic for breakouts. The rating can also be influenced by the finished product: rich creams containing other comedogenic oils may override the low score of this single component.
Summary
Hydrogenated Dimer Dilinoleth-20 acts primarily as a cleanser and emulsifier. Its balanced fatty core grabs onto oils and dirt while the polyethylene glycol side makes it disperse in water, allowing grime to lift away and letting oil-and-water mixtures stay unified in creams or lotions. Though not as famous as classic surfactants like sodium laureth sulfate it appears in a steady stream of gentle cleansers makeup removers sunscreens and light conditioners thanks to its mild feel and reliable performance.
Current research and decades of consumer use point to a strong safety profile with only rare reports of irritation or allergy. As with any new cosmetic it is smart to patch test a small area first to confirm personal tolerance before applying liberally.