What Is Hydrogenated Dimer Dilinoleyl/Dimethylcarbonate Copolymer?
Hydrogenated Dimer Dilinoleyl/Dimethylcarbonate Copolymer is a soft wax-like polymer made by reacting methyl carbonate with hydrogenated dimer dilinoleyl alcohol, a fatty alcohol derived from linoleic acid found in many plant oils such as soybean or sunflower. Chemists began looking at this type of material in the 1990s when formulators needed a lightweight alternative to mineral oils that could also help keep water and oil mixed. The result was a biodegradable, silicone-free ingredient that gives products a smooth cushioned feel.
Production starts by taking plant-based linoleic acid, linking two of its molecules to form a dimer, converting the dimer to an alcohol then fully hydrogenating it so it stays stable. This alcohol is then reacted with methyl carbonate in a controlled process that builds a branching polymer chain. The finished copolymer is purified, cooled and delivered to cosmetic labs as soft pellets or a viscous liquid.
You will most often see this ingredient in moisturizing creams, lotions, sunscreens, lipstick, foundations, leave-on hair conditioners and overnight masks where it helps improve texture and longevity.
Hydrogenated Dimer Dilinoleyl/Dimethylcarbonate Copolymer’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses
This ingredient is valued for two main roles in beauty formulas
- Emulsion stabilising: Helps water and oil stay blended so the product keeps a uniform texture from the first use to the last and resists separating in hot or cold conditions
- Skin protecting: Forms a light breathable film that locks in moisture shields skin from wind and pollution and leaves a silky non-greasy finish
Who Can Use Hydrogenated Dimer Dilinoleyl/Dimethylcarbonate Copolymer
This soft film-forming polymer is considered friendly for all major skin types. It is lightweight enough for oily or combination skin yet emollient enough to soothe dry or mature skin. Sensitive skin generally tolerates it well because it is non-sensitising and free from common irritants. There are no known reasons for acne-prone skin to avoid it since it has a low pore-clogging tendency and leaves a breathable finish.
The ingredient is derived entirely from plant oils and a synthetic carbonate so it is suitable for both vegetarians and vegans. No animal-derived raw materials or by-products are used during manufacturing.
Current safety data shows no specific hazards for pregnant or breastfeeding women when the ingredient is used in normal cosmetic amounts. That said this is not medical advice and anyone who is pregnant or nursing should review any skincare product with their healthcare provider before use.
Hydrogenated Dimer Dilinoleyl/Dimethylcarbonate Copolymer does not increase photosensitivity. Users can apply it during daytime routines without worrying about extra sun reactivity though standard sun protection is still recommended.
Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions
Responses to topical Hydrogenated Dimer Dilinoleyl/Dimethylcarbonate Copolymer differ from person to person. The effects listed below are possible yet uncommon for most properly formulated products.
- Mild skin irritation
- Rare allergic contact dermatitis in individuals already sensitive to fatty alcohol derivatives
- Temporary buildup or heaviness on very fine hair if used in leave-in hair products
If any discomfort redness or itching occurs discontinue use and consult a healthcare professional for advice.
Comedogenic Rating
Rating: 1/5
Hydrogenated Dimer Dilinoleyl/Dimethylcarbonate Copolymer earns a low score because its large branched molecules sit on the skin surface without penetrating deep into pores and the thin breathable film it forms allows normal sebum flow. It lacks fatty acids that bacteria feed on and it does not oxidize easily, both of which further reduce clogging potential.
Overall this ingredient is considered suitable for people prone to acne or breakouts.
Formulas that pair it with heavier butters or waxes could raise the overall clogging risk so look at the full ingredient list when evaluating a product.
Summary
Hydrogenated Dimer Dilinoleyl/Dimethylcarbonate Copolymer is mainly an emulsion stabilizer and skin protectant. Its branching polymer structure anchors water and oil droplets in place so creams stay smooth while leaving a silky film that slows moisture loss and shields skin from external stressors.
It has a quiet popularity in modern clean beauty and silicone free products because it delivers slip and cushion without relying on petroleum derived materials. You will spot it more often in mid to high tier moisturizers, sunscreens and long wear makeup than in mass market basics.
Current research and decades of safe use show a very low risk of irritation or sensitization for most users. As with any new cosmetic ingredient it is smart to perform a quick patch test when trying a product that contains it just to ensure your skin agrees.