Hydrogenated Plukenetia Volubilis Seed Oil: What Is It, Cosmetic Uses, Benefits & Side Effects

Curious about this ingredient? In this article we're explaining exactly what it is and why it's used within cosmetic formulations.
Updated on: June 27, 2025
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We verify all information on this page using publicly available nomenclature standards from The Personal Care Products Council (PCPC), the European Commission's CosIng database and documentation provided directly by ingredient manufacturers. Our analysis is based on technical data from these sources to ensure accuracy and reliability.

What Is Hydrogenated Plukenetia Volubilis Seed Oil?

Hydrogenated Plukenetia Volubilis Seed Oil comes from the seeds of Plukenetia volubilis, a plant better known as sacha inchi and native to the Amazon region. The raw seed oil is rich in unsaturated fatty acids like linoleic and alpha linolenic acids. Through a process called controlled hydrogenation, some of those unsaturated bonds are converted to saturated ones, giving the oil a more solid, butter-like texture and greater stability against oxidation. Cosmetic chemists began exploring this ingredient in the early 2000s when interest in plant-based butters grew, and it quickly found favor as a natural alternative to synthetic emollients. Production starts with cold pressing the seeds to obtain the oil, followed by gentle hydrogenation under low heat and pressure until the desired melting point is reached. The finished ingredient appears in moisturizers, anti-aging creams, balms, lipsticks, masks, hair conditioners and targeted repair treatments where a silky feel and longer shelf life are needed.

Hydrogenated Plukenetia Volubilis Seed Oil’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses

Formulators prize this plant butter for the way it cushions the skin and improves product texture. Its main functions translate into the following benefits:

  • Skin conditioning: Forms a soft, breathable film that helps prevent moisture loss so skin feels smoother and more supple
  • Emollient: Fills in tiny gaps in the skin’s surface, leaving a velvety finish and reducing the appearance of rough patches

Who Can Use Hydrogenated Plukenetia Volubilis Seed Oil

This plant butter suits most skin types thanks to its balanced fatty acid profile. Dry and mature skin typically benefit the most because the ingredient locks in moisture and softens rough areas. Normal and combination skin can also enjoy its cushioning feel without feeling greasy so long as the overall formula is lightweight. Very oily or acne-prone complexions might prefer it in smaller concentrations or rinse-off products because the richer texture could contribute to congestion if layered heavily.

Because the oil comes entirely from a plant seed and the hydrogenation step does not involve animal substances, it is suitable for vegans and vegetarians.

Current data shows no specific risks for women who are pregnant or breastfeeding when the ingredient is used topically. This is not medical advice and anyone who is pregnant or nursing should discuss new skincare products with a healthcare provider to be on the safe side.

The ingredient does not cause photosensitivity, meaning it will not make skin more prone to sunburn. It is also fragrance-free by nature and carries only a mild, nutty scent, which makes it friendly for sensitive noses.

Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions

Responses to topical Hydrogenated Plukenetia Volubilis Seed Oil can differ from one person to another. The points below describe potential side effects but they are uncommon and most users will not encounter them when the ingredient is formulated and applied correctly.

  • Allergic contact dermatitis – a small number of people sensitive to tree nuts or seeds could experience redness or itching
  • Clogged pores or breakouts – very oily or acne-prone skin might notice bumps if large amounts are used in leave-on products
  • Product spoilage irritation – using a formula that is past its shelf life can lead to off odors and mild skin discomfort

If any persistent redness, swelling or other irritation occurs stop using the product and consult a healthcare professional.

Comedogenic Rating

Rating: 2 / 5. The hydrogenation step increases the level of saturated fats, giving the butter a thicker feel that can linger on the skin. This raises a mild potential to block pores in very oily or congested areas, though most people tolerate it well at the typical low percentages used in leave-on products.

Breakout-prone users may be fine when the ingredient appears in lightweight lotions or rinse-off formulas, but should be cautious with rich creams, balms or layered applications.

Formulation matters: combining it with quick-absorbing esters or keeping its share of the oil phase below roughly 10 percent further reduces clogging risk.

Summary

Hydrogenated Plukenetia Volubilis Seed Oil conditions skin and acts as an emollient by filling microscopic gaps and forming a light occlusive layer that slows water loss. The result is softer, smoother and more resilient skin.

While not yet as widespread as shea or cocoa butter, it is becoming popular in eco-minded and indie skincare for its silky glide, extended shelf life and plant-based origin.

Current research shows it is generally safe with low irritation potential and no known systemic hazards. Still, it is wise to patch test any new product containing this butter to confirm personal tolerance.

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